In all probability the electric power grid will fail for a significant length of time within our lives. If we are prepared we will be able to “weather the storm”. There are many aspects to being prepared: food, water, shelter, clothing, heating, lighting, etc. We will focus on two: heating & lighting. How we prepare depends on “what” we are preparing for: pandemic, earthquake, storms, floods, winter, etc.
HEATING - For a Home
Water Pipe Freezing/Preparation to Prevent Pipe Freezing
• Keep Pipes from Freezing or drain them, Frozen pipes won’t be apparent until they thaw.
• Moving water will not freeze as easily, so the easiest short term solution is to open the faucets to allow a slow drip. However, this solution will only protect the lines the water is flowing in (IE opening a bathroom faucet will not protect the water line going to the toilet or shower).
• The most reliable solution is to drain all the pipes. Before proceeding, ensure you have enough water for your future needs. Locate your main water valve into the home, and close. Open the drain valve on the main line, (sometimes no water will drain until a faucet is opened. Locate the highest faucet in the home and open to the cold water side). This will drain the cold water from the lines. Locate your water heater, and open the drain valve. Turn the opened faucet now to the hot side. Don’t forget your toilet bowls and tanks, clothes washers, dish washers, water and sump pumps, etc.
Home Protection
• Don’t turn off natural gas unless you smell it.
• Heat whole house or select small room to heat. Select a space on the “warm” side of the house, avoid rooms with large windows or un-insulated walls. Interior rooms, basements, etc work best.
• Seal cracks around doors and windows with sealing tape, towels and blankets. Limit area to be heated. Be careful to allow enough oxygen into room, CO battery detector.
• Isolate the room from the rest of the house by keeping doors closed. Hang bedding, heavy drapes, blankets over entryways, windows, hallways, etc. or erecting temporary partitions of cardboard or plywood.
• If your windows are broken in an earthquake, put heavy visqueen plastic, cardboard, or plywood sheets over window frame to seal out cold. Use heavy duty duct tape. Put a layer of clear plastic on the inside and one on the outside of the window frame to make a dead air space between the two layers. Plastic will allow light to come in during the day.
Secondary Heat Sources – Your choice may very depending on your circumstances and the type of emergency.
1st Choice - Generators –There are several types, sizes and safety rules to follow. Please refer to the class on generators for more information. Never run generators indoors or even in the garage; they produce large amounts of toxic carbon monoxide (CO).
2nd Choice - Natural Gas/Propane/Kerosene VENTED – Safe to use all winter, Heats around 2000 sqft.. You may want to get a conversion kit to use both natural gas or propane. Give good radiant heat. External fuel tank for propane or kerosene.
3rd Choice – Wood, VENTED – Gives good radiant heat, safe for whole house or just one room. Some can burn coal. Can cook on some wood stoves.
4th Choice – Natural Gas/LP UNVENTED – Various types and Styles. 99% heating efficient, thermostatically controlled, automatically modulates heat output. Heats around 1000 sqft. Some have Oxygen Depletion Sensor Shutoff.
5th Choice – Natural Gas or LP UNVENTED (Portable) – Low to High CO Emission and moisture. All unvented open or closed flame units still burn oxygen. Proper air flow must be allowed for. Output varies. Reddy Heater, MR Heater (tank top and Buddy).
6th Choice – Kerosene UNVENTED (Portable) – High CO Emission, nitrogen dioxide (cause throat and lung irritation), sulfur dioxide (impairs breathing) and moisture. All unvented open or closed flame units still burn oxygen. Proper air flow must be allowed for. Output varies. 21st Century (Lowes, HomeDepot, Cal Ranch, etc). Use for short term emergencies or temporary heating. Not approved by Logan Fire Dept in occupied living spaces.
Fuels – Types, Storage and Safety
NOTE: Logan City codes prohibit the storage of flammable liquids in homes, basements, or garages. Remember to put a fuel additive to any stored fuel. Pri-G for gasoline, Pri-D for diesel or kerosene, or Sea-Foam.
Propane - storage max 25 gals or 100 lbs, close to home (means 2 week supply, need 1000lbs plus for all winter, larger tanks can be used if 10ft from buildings). Used with heaters, stoves and lanterns. Stores easily, nearly indefinite shelf life.
Kerosene - max 60 gals in combination with diesel and lamp oil. Expensive, strong odor, low flash point means relatively safe to use.
Wood – No City restriction on amount, stack away from buildings. Use only seasoned, dry wood 15-20% moisture, dry for min full summer. Best wood is what is most available. Stack off ground. Cord is 4x4x8 ft. Use Rolled newspapers, fire starters, etc.
Butane – max 100 gals in combination with etc. Use with small heaters, stoves, lanterns. Expensive.
White Gas - max 25 gals in combination with gasoline, white gas, etc. Use with stoves and lanterns. Tends to evaporate easily even when tightly sealed. High BTU but expensive.
Diesel – max 60 gals in combination with kerosene & lamp oil. Low volatility, easy to find, stores up to 10yrs w/ treatment. Gels in cold weather. Use with some stoves.
Coal &Charcoal – No City restrictions, store away from buildings. Store in dark, dry place. Coal is very economical.
LIGHTING
LED lights most efficient; fluorescent and incandescent are worst.
Solar Flashlight –
Bogo Light www.bogolight.com 4-20 hrs per charge $33.
LED Hybrid Solar (1st click solar, 2nd click battery) 16 hrs per charge, Water proof, floats, 100k hrs use, find at Costco or https://www.chooserenewables.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16176&cat=260&page=1 $20 plus S/H
Solar Lantern – http://www.21st-century-goods.com http://store.sundancesolar.com/sorelasl.html http://www.campinglanterns.net/solarlantern.aspx
SL9000 – fluorescent tube, flash mode, 3hrs on high per 30hr charge, can use AC or 12v car adapter for charging. $69 plus SH
SL9000SW - same as SL9000 w/ AM/FM radio, weather channel, Alarm, Strobe $80 plus SH
SL9100 SL9100W - Thin version. 6hrs on high per 32 hrs charge, comes in fluorescent or LED w/ AM/FM $81 plus SH
. Gordon Lantern – 12 LEDs 8hr run on full charge, Low light output. $25 plus SH http://www.harborfreight.com
Propane/White Gas/Kerosene Lantern – Coleman or similar make. Burns hot, Must store fuel and extra mantels. You cannot run in a tent or indoors for long periods.
Oil Lanterns – Low light, hot, smells, oil spills, smoke output must store fuels, wicks,
Bogo Light Solar Hybrid SL9000 SL9000SW SL9100W Gordon Lantern Coleman Propane
POWER – Generators: Gas, Propane, Diesel
• Use to run furnace, refrigerator, freezer, etc. Use smallest size that can get you by to min. fuel storage.
• Never run generators indoors; they produce large amounts of toxic carbon monoxide
• Pros: Small space required, allows running multiple household appliances (depending on unit’s size), inexpensive
• Cons: Requires fuel storage depending on type of generator (gas, propane, diesel), produces
carbon monoxide, noisy although muffler can help.
Gas Portable Generators
• Easy to handle – no setup, just plug in
• Many sizes and types 800 watts – 10,000 watts
• Prices range $400 on up
o Coleman
o Honda
o Yamaha
o Generac (Home Depot Generac 5500 w $797)
Examples of Portable Generators:
3500-10,000 watts $420-$880 Yamaha EF2400iS $1090 (very quiet) Honda EU2000i $1080 (very quiet)
(very noisy)
Just remember that like the saying goes “you get what you pay for”. Buying an inexpensive generator, means you’ll get a generator, that:
a) won’t last long; b) will not produce a good power wave and therefore may not run some sensitive electronic appliances.
Generator Safety: Every generator emits carbon monoxide (CO). Only operate a generator outdoors (even operating a generator in the garage can allow CO into the home) in a well-ventilated, dry area, away from air intakes to the home, and protected from direct exposure
to rain and snow, preferably under a canopy, open shed or carport. A generator does produce enough electricity to KILL you, so follow all safety rules and procedures.
How to Connect a Portable Generator
Plug-in Method: The easiest connect is to plug in what you need. Unsure the generator is located in a safe place outdoors (see Generator Safety above). Run extension cords inside to each device. Make sure the cords are sized large enough to handle the device and only as long as needed (long extension cords will cause a “voltage drop” and may not provide adequate voltage to the device). A #16 cord is good for 1100 watts, #14 cord is good for 1650 watts, a #12 is good for 2200 watts (see “Wire Gauge” chart located in the appendix for help in sizing cords with
lengths). Most appliances have a cord that can be plugged in (even most microwaves have them. Look in the cupboard above the hanging unit). The exception is the furnace. However, a backup plug can be added to a furnace for emergency use for about $100 (contact your local furnace technician, or electrician). For lighting, use portable lamps.
Panel Connection
Due to the safety and liability of this method I must recommend that only a qualified electrician should perform this connection. However, if you are going to do this, for safety, you MUST disconnect or turn off your main breaker. If you do not, it could result in a “backfeed”
onto the utility system. During an outage the utility workers will naturally assume that the power lines are off. The results could be electrical shock even death to a utility worker.
Standby Generator
This type of generator has a “fixed” location (IE is not portable) and is installed right to the house system. When a power outage occurs the generator starts (manually or automatically) and feeds into the house electrical wiring (also manually or automatically). These standby
systems cost more but offer the peace of mind that little is required to be “up and running” other than “throwing a couple switches”. These systems are installed by qualified electricians and need to be approved by your utility to ensure safety. The other advantage of these
systems is various fuel options are available: Gasoline, diesel, propane, natural gas, etc. Disadvantage is they are expensive. A 8000 watt system with installation can cost $5000 and up.
Standby Generator Portable Power Battery Pack
Portable Power Inverters & Battery Packs:
• Power inverter: This is a small electrical device that converts DC current, from a car cigarette lighter or a car battery, into 110 AC current. It enables you to use a common electrical device or appliance in your car or any place that has access to a 12 volt battery. They can cost from $15 - S400 depending on the size and quality. A car battery is inexpensive and fully charged will work for 6 to 12 hours, depending on what you plug into the inverter and how much electricity that device uses.
• Suggestions: Powerpack by Xantrex – 600 watt AC inverter (internal) surge/ 400 Watt sustained, or “dolly cart” 1500 with 28 amp/hr battery, 3 AC sockets 1 DC socket, recharged by AC or DC so can recharge from a solar panel, jumper cables, AM/FM clock radio, alarm clock, built-in light; MSRP $229, Xantrex 1500watt $385, 400watt $150 Amazon.
Wind Generators:
Use the wind to generate power and run appliances/electronics. Easy installation, but must be installed in windy areas, and on a “tower” (generally purchased separately). Also should be used with a battery bank/inverter for optimum use. Carbon fiber composite blades to ensure low wind noise. 400 watt max power. $600 tower sold separately. 12v battery charging.
Solar Panels:
Use sun light to produce electricity. Panels are typically installed “On” or “Off” the grid, meaning they are/are not tide into the typical utility system. Keep in mind that “on” the grid does not mean you’ll have power when the utility grid goes down, that requires a separate battery bank system. Solar system cost around $10-$20 per watt installed. Panel system can be manual adjusted or “track” the sun automatically (this feature adds $3000-$5000). There are rebates currently available to offset the costs (City, Federal, State, RMPs, etc). Check with your local utility. As with anything you get what you pay for, so be careful, do your research on panels
Thursday, April 1, 2010
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Dried Beans
More recipes to come!
Dry beans and soybeans are nutrient-dense,
fiber-rich, and are high-quality sources of protein. Protective and
therapeutic effects of both dry bean and soybean intake have been
documented. Studies show that dry bean intake has the potential to
decrease serum cholesterol concentrations, improve many aspects
of the diabetic state, and provide metabolic benefits that aid in
weight control. Soybeans are a unique source of the isoflavones
genistein and diadzein, which have numerous biological functions.
Soybeans and soyfoods potentially have multifaceted health-promoting
effects, including cholesterol reduction, improved vascular
health, preserved bone mineral density, and reduction of menopausal
symptoms (American Journal of Clinical Nutrition - http://www.ajcn.org/cgi/reprint/70/3/464S).
http://www.michiganbean.org/history.html
http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/FN_207.pdf
Varieties Description Uses Names Seeds/100g
Pinto
Med. size, brown with pink streaks
Favorite for refried beans and other Mexican & South American dishes. Beans turn solid pink when cooked.
Cooking time: 1-1/2 to 2 hrs.
Pink
Med. size, pinkish beige
Popular in barbecue style dishes.
Cook 1 hr.
Great Northern
Large, oval, white
A frequent choice for soups, casseroles, baked dishes & mixing with other varieties.
Cook 1 hr.
Large White
Red
Pea shape, small, dark
Adds sparkle to bean salads. Can be used in any colored bean recipe.
Cook 1 to 1.5 hrs.
Mexican Red Bean,Small Red
Kidney
Kidney shaped, large, red
Used as the favored bean in New Orleans' red bean dish and Southwest's popular chili.
Precooked, available in cans.
Mexican Bean
Light Red Kidney
Kidney shaped, large, red
Also used as the favored bean in New Orleans' red bean dish, Southwest's popular chili, in salads and with rice.
Cook 1.5 to 2 hours
Small White
Oval, small, white
the bean of choice in Boston baked beans and the Senate dining room's favorite soup.
Cranberry
Deep red markings, pink skin
A favorite for Italian cuisine. Also known as Roman beans. Loses streaks when cooked.
Cook 1.5 to 2 hrs.
Romano, Speckled Sugar
Navy
Medium white pea.
A fine baker and soup maker.
Cook 1.5 to 2 hours
White Pea, Alubias Chica
Black
Pea shape, small, black
Caribbean and South American cuisine. Traditional in soups. Adds color to salads.
Cook 1.5 hrs.
Black Turtle,Mexican Black, Spanish Black,Preto
http://www2.state.id.us/bean/recipes/getrecipe.cfm
Begin by washing beans and discarding any which are discolored or badly formed. Check for debris in the package such as small rocks or twigs and discard them. Beans cook more quickly and their digestibility benefits with soaking in water to cover by about 3 inches (7.5 cm) for 8 hours or overnight. Discard the soak water and cook the beans in fresh water.
Some bean cookery aficionados feel that salt and seasonings added during the cooking tends to make beans cook more slowly. Since beans require lengthy cooking, we recommend adding salt and seasonings during the last few minutes and find they absorb flavor quite readily.
There are other factors which contribute to the length of cooking, such as, hard water and beans that have been dried for a long period of time. For some of the longer cooking beans we have found that soaking 24 hours and changing the soak water 2 or 3 times hastens the cooking time.
Many people are concerned with the reputation that beans have for causing flatulence. Starting your bean ventures with small amounts helps to increase your body's enzyme production gradually. Soaking and cooking the beans thoroughly helps to break down the complex sugars (oligosaccharides) which challenge our digestive systems.
Some herbs that help the digestion of beans can be added during the cooking process. These include bay leaf, cumin, and winter or summer savory, fresh epazote (available in Hispanic markets). Many people from India maintain the tradition of chewing on dried fennel seeds or drinking a cup of fennel tea at the end of a legume meal to aid the digestion.
QUICK-SOAK METHOD: When time is limited, you can wash and pick over beans and put them into a stock pot with water to cover by 3 inches (7.5 cm). Bring to a boil and boil for 10 minutes to remove toxins. Then cover and allow to soak for 1 hour. Discard soak water, add fresh water, and cook until tender.
As a general rule of thumb, 1 cup of dried beans will yield about 2 1/2 - 3 cups (.5 to .75 liters) of cooked beans.
PRESSURE COOKING
For pressure-cooking beans you can choose to soak the beans overnight, use the quick-soak method, or forego soaking altogether. There are well-known chefs, like Emeril Lagasse, who do not soak beans before pressure-cooking.
Whether you choose to soak or eliminate that step, put the beans in the pressure cooker with 3 times as much water as beans. Cook at 15 pounds of pressure for 30 minutes for small beans. For large beans, such as limas or fava beans, pressure cook for about 40 minutes. http://www.vegparadise.com/charts.html
Dry beans and soybeans are nutrient-dense,
fiber-rich, and are high-quality sources of protein. Protective and
therapeutic effects of both dry bean and soybean intake have been
documented. Studies show that dry bean intake has the potential to
decrease serum cholesterol concentrations, improve many aspects
of the diabetic state, and provide metabolic benefits that aid in
weight control. Soybeans are a unique source of the isoflavones
genistein and diadzein, which have numerous biological functions.
Soybeans and soyfoods potentially have multifaceted health-promoting
effects, including cholesterol reduction, improved vascular
health, preserved bone mineral density, and reduction of menopausal
symptoms (American Journal of Clinical Nutrition - http://www.ajcn.org/cgi/reprint/70/3/464S).
http://www.michiganbean.org/history.html
http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/FN_207.pdf
Varieties Description Uses Names Seeds/100g
Pinto
Med. size, brown with pink streaks
Favorite for refried beans and other Mexican & South American dishes. Beans turn solid pink when cooked.
Cooking time: 1-1/2 to 2 hrs.
Pink
Med. size, pinkish beige
Popular in barbecue style dishes.
Cook 1 hr.
Great Northern
Large, oval, white
A frequent choice for soups, casseroles, baked dishes & mixing with other varieties.
Cook 1 hr.
Large White
Red
Pea shape, small, dark
Adds sparkle to bean salads. Can be used in any colored bean recipe.
Cook 1 to 1.5 hrs.
Mexican Red Bean,Small Red
Kidney
Kidney shaped, large, red
Used as the favored bean in New Orleans' red bean dish and Southwest's popular chili.
Precooked, available in cans.
Mexican Bean
Light Red Kidney
Kidney shaped, large, red
Also used as the favored bean in New Orleans' red bean dish, Southwest's popular chili, in salads and with rice.
Cook 1.5 to 2 hours
Small White
Oval, small, white
the bean of choice in Boston baked beans and the Senate dining room's favorite soup.
Cranberry
Deep red markings, pink skin
A favorite for Italian cuisine. Also known as Roman beans. Loses streaks when cooked.
Cook 1.5 to 2 hrs.
Romano, Speckled Sugar
Navy
Medium white pea.
A fine baker and soup maker.
Cook 1.5 to 2 hours
White Pea, Alubias Chica
Black
Pea shape, small, black
Caribbean and South American cuisine. Traditional in soups. Adds color to salads.
Cook 1.5 hrs.
Black Turtle,Mexican Black, Spanish Black,Preto
http://www2.state.id.us/bean/recipes/getrecipe.cfm
Begin by washing beans and discarding any which are discolored or badly formed. Check for debris in the package such as small rocks or twigs and discard them. Beans cook more quickly and their digestibility benefits with soaking in water to cover by about 3 inches (7.5 cm) for 8 hours or overnight. Discard the soak water and cook the beans in fresh water.
Some bean cookery aficionados feel that salt and seasonings added during the cooking tends to make beans cook more slowly. Since beans require lengthy cooking, we recommend adding salt and seasonings during the last few minutes and find they absorb flavor quite readily.
There are other factors which contribute to the length of cooking, such as, hard water and beans that have been dried for a long period of time. For some of the longer cooking beans we have found that soaking 24 hours and changing the soak water 2 or 3 times hastens the cooking time.
Many people are concerned with the reputation that beans have for causing flatulence. Starting your bean ventures with small amounts helps to increase your body's enzyme production gradually. Soaking and cooking the beans thoroughly helps to break down the complex sugars (oligosaccharides) which challenge our digestive systems.
Some herbs that help the digestion of beans can be added during the cooking process. These include bay leaf, cumin, and winter or summer savory, fresh epazote (available in Hispanic markets). Many people from India maintain the tradition of chewing on dried fennel seeds or drinking a cup of fennel tea at the end of a legume meal to aid the digestion.
QUICK-SOAK METHOD: When time is limited, you can wash and pick over beans and put them into a stock pot with water to cover by 3 inches (7.5 cm). Bring to a boil and boil for 10 minutes to remove toxins. Then cover and allow to soak for 1 hour. Discard soak water, add fresh water, and cook until tender.
As a general rule of thumb, 1 cup of dried beans will yield about 2 1/2 - 3 cups (.5 to .75 liters) of cooked beans.
PRESSURE COOKING
For pressure-cooking beans you can choose to soak the beans overnight, use the quick-soak method, or forego soaking altogether. There are well-known chefs, like Emeril Lagasse, who do not soak beans before pressure-cooking.
Whether you choose to soak or eliminate that step, put the beans in the pressure cooker with 3 times as much water as beans. Cook at 15 pounds of pressure for 30 minutes for small beans. For large beans, such as limas or fava beans, pressure cook for about 40 minutes. http://www.vegparadise.com/charts.html
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
Solar Power System General Information
Will you need a regulator?
Yes, if you are dealing with large panels, you will generally need a regulator. Generally if your solar panel can fully charge your batteries in a day or two then you will definitely need a regulator. A power regulator takes the power from your solar panels and regulates the feed into your batteries which can be used at night or when there is no power coming from the panels. The prime role of the regulator is to make sure the batteries are not overcharged. Many regulators also prevent your batteries from becoming too discharged and will prolong the life of your batteries.
Some circumstances when you would not need a regulator are when your system has no battery or where the solar panel or if it is designed to slowly charge a large battery. Some systems with no battery might include a solar powered water pump in rural areas which only pumps water during the day, or as used in my campervan, solar powered air fans to ventilate the area during the day.
One important thing to note about regulators. Some are 'night light' regulators. They will only switch on power to a load when the incoming power is low, such as at night. These are good for controlling lights at night, but no good for use in alternative energy applications.
What sort of batteries should I use?
Deep cycle batteries will normally suit your system best. The capacity of the batteries will depend on what you want to power. I would suggest that you do a bit of research on solar panels and deep cycle batteries but I can suggest this: All research I have done has suggested that your battery should not be of too much capacity that your solar panels can not recharge them properly after being discharged over night. Flat or low charged batteries will not last as long as fully charged batteries. Regularly flattening the battery will dramatically shorten it’s life. A low voltage cut off or a regulator with built in low voltage cut off is a must and will save you money and inconvenience in the long run.
To size the solar panels large enough to recharge a battery bank (this is kind of a reverse way to calculate. Usually the Solar panels are purchased first and then the batteries sized to fit the panels): determine the battery capacity in amphrs x 12/5 = max solar watts needed.
How can I get more power out of my panels?
It is all done with mirrors. Literally, reflect more light on to the panels. If you can set up reflectors that reflect morning and / or evening light on to your panels you will get more power out of them. You might not want to do this during the hotter parts of the day, but certainly a few sheets of polished metal may be a cheaper alternative to buying extra panels. I’ve seen it done on a small scale, and read of it being done on a larger scale. Don’t expect miracles though. Twice as much light will not equal twice as much power. Also, I think there would be a limit to how much extra light you could reflect on to a panel before it became a solar furnace and went up I smoke.
Know your product - Solar panel manufacturers.
Here are a number of companies that I have seen who have manufactured solar panels. Remember when shopping for solar panels, always look for the lowest negative tolerance rating possible and the highest efficiency rating!
Uni-Solar. (3% Negative Tolerance)
Uni-Solar panels are manufactured in Mexico and California. Their panels are typically larger than most other panels of the same wattage. The Uni-Solar panels are also well known for their shade resistance through the use of bypass diodes. In plain language, if part of the panel is in shade the unshaded portion of the panel is better able to pass along it’s power than pretty much all other brands of solar panel. They also perform better than most panels as they get hotter. Almost all other panels become less productive in the heat. This makes them well suited for mounting on campervans, motor homes and caravans. The Uni-Solar panels are also pretty tough. I’ve read reliable stories and seen pictures of Uni-Solar panels that have come off car roof and still been useable.
Uni-Solar produce rigid panels and flexible ones. That’s right, solar panels you can roll up. The large rigid 64 Watt solar panels usually sell for $590-$640 (plus shipping), depending on demand and availability. There has been a supply issue with them in the past but I think that has been resolved. Smaller flexible panels are more expensive per watt. These are the only large panels that I would recommend paying more than $10 per watt on. The flexible panels are used a lot for marine use such as sailing boats as they are very weather proof.
My personal experience with the Uni-Solar panels are that they have been reliable, easy to maintain and produce good useable power. They are also easy to wire up, having a large junction box for easy wiring. I have had no issues with them. They work fine.
Sharp. (5% Negative Tolerance)
I think that up until recently Sharp was the largest manufacturer of solar panels in the world. Their technology is mature, as they have had a lot of experience with making solar panels. Generally Sharp make panels in the 80-120 Watt range, with a few smaller ones. They make rigid panels only. Their panels are easily recognizable as they tend to have square cells that cover the entire panel surface.
I have brought a 55 Watt Sharp panel in the past and had no problems with it. I can certainly recommend them. Most Sharp panels are manufactured and used in Germany where there are some pretty impressive solar power stations.
SolarWorld (3% Negative Tolerance)
Another good manufacturer and one of the best tolerance ratings in the market
Reliagen (3% Negative Tolerance)
A great manufacturer with the best tolerance rating on the market and the best efficiency rating!
Suntech (3% Negative Tolerance)
Suntech is a relatively new beginner in solar power manufacturing. They are a joint Australian - Chinese company created by a dual nationality Chinese-Australian, DR Zhengrong Shi. Although they are new, their solar panels are top notch, and they offer the standard 20 year guarantee on their panels. They produce rigid panels from 2-165 watts . I have an 80 Watt Suntech panel mounted on my campervan. It has performed well, and I have had no issues at all with it in over a year.
BP (5-9% Negative Tolerance)
BP (British Petroleum) is one of the oldest producers of solar panels. Some of their panels have been in use in Australia for 20 years or more now. They tend to produce high wattage solar panels between 80-220 watts. Their panels still tend to have a bit of a retro look with lots of small round photo voltaic solar cells. I have no experience using these panels but I know people who have, and they have not had problems with them.
Kyocera (5% Negative Tolerance)
Kyocera is the world’s largest manufacturer. They have good quality, effiency rating and warranty. Can’t go wrong here.
Mitsubishi (3% Negative Tolerance)
Another great name and product. Can’t go wrong here.
There are many others, but one of the biggest factors to keep in mind is your application. A small remote application for the mountains is a different require than a home large solar power system, and as the quality goes up so does the price. Also, some manufacturers or providers will only sell particular panels in large quantities. So you may have to settle for a lesser quality for your application.
What about these double sided space technology solar panels?
I’ve seen a few of these on eBay recently. I don’t own one, I don’t know anyone that does. However, logic suggests that unless you have a set up that reflects light on to both sides of them, they will only get light on one side. In truth I expect that all solar panels that were mounted in glass without a non transparent backing would work this way. Until I test one of these I am a bit sceptical. If the panel is mounted in glass with no backing it may be more fragile than a normal panel. Still if it comes with a 20 year warranty, maybe it is worth a try, provided the company that makes them will be around in 20 years.
Other forms of alternative / remote area power.
Wind generators.
These are generally new to the market but are coming down in price. Wind turbines and wind generators generally will produce more power than solar panels. Typical small systems will generate about 200 watts of power. That is more than my 4 solar panels put together. These units are small, light weight and reasonably easy to set up. I have seen one of these set up as a demo model. It certainly managed to produce a lot of power. One problem with them though is that unlike solar panels they have moving parts and will require maintenance.
Wind generators come in much larger sizes though. 24 volt 700 watt models can be brought for under $1000. This represents much better value for money if the wind generator is able to provide power at a steady rate. Wind generators will not generate power if there is no wind, but unlike solar panels, they can generate power at night.
Petrol / Diesel Generators.
You might think that generators are not exactly alternative power, but they certainly are useful remote area power. You should not rule them out. Particularly as a small generator could provide you with all your power needs. A small generator of reasonable quality could cost less than $200. Considering that four solar panels might cost you about $2500 that would leave a lot of money left over for fuel to run the generator. Generators however usually don’t last 20 years. They require maintenance, refuelling, repairs and eventual replacement. They are also noisy. However, they provide almost the only reliable guarantee of power when you
Yes, if you are dealing with large panels, you will generally need a regulator. Generally if your solar panel can fully charge your batteries in a day or two then you will definitely need a regulator. A power regulator takes the power from your solar panels and regulates the feed into your batteries which can be used at night or when there is no power coming from the panels. The prime role of the regulator is to make sure the batteries are not overcharged. Many regulators also prevent your batteries from becoming too discharged and will prolong the life of your batteries.
Some circumstances when you would not need a regulator are when your system has no battery or where the solar panel or if it is designed to slowly charge a large battery. Some systems with no battery might include a solar powered water pump in rural areas which only pumps water during the day, or as used in my campervan, solar powered air fans to ventilate the area during the day.
One important thing to note about regulators. Some are 'night light' regulators. They will only switch on power to a load when the incoming power is low, such as at night. These are good for controlling lights at night, but no good for use in alternative energy applications.
What sort of batteries should I use?
Deep cycle batteries will normally suit your system best. The capacity of the batteries will depend on what you want to power. I would suggest that you do a bit of research on solar panels and deep cycle batteries but I can suggest this: All research I have done has suggested that your battery should not be of too much capacity that your solar panels can not recharge them properly after being discharged over night. Flat or low charged batteries will not last as long as fully charged batteries. Regularly flattening the battery will dramatically shorten it’s life. A low voltage cut off or a regulator with built in low voltage cut off is a must and will save you money and inconvenience in the long run.
To size the solar panels large enough to recharge a battery bank (this is kind of a reverse way to calculate. Usually the Solar panels are purchased first and then the batteries sized to fit the panels): determine the battery capacity in amphrs x 12/5 = max solar watts needed.
How can I get more power out of my panels?
It is all done with mirrors. Literally, reflect more light on to the panels. If you can set up reflectors that reflect morning and / or evening light on to your panels you will get more power out of them. You might not want to do this during the hotter parts of the day, but certainly a few sheets of polished metal may be a cheaper alternative to buying extra panels. I’ve seen it done on a small scale, and read of it being done on a larger scale. Don’t expect miracles though. Twice as much light will not equal twice as much power. Also, I think there would be a limit to how much extra light you could reflect on to a panel before it became a solar furnace and went up I smoke.
Know your product - Solar panel manufacturers.
Here are a number of companies that I have seen who have manufactured solar panels. Remember when shopping for solar panels, always look for the lowest negative tolerance rating possible and the highest efficiency rating!
Uni-Solar. (3% Negative Tolerance)
Uni-Solar panels are manufactured in Mexico and California. Their panels are typically larger than most other panels of the same wattage. The Uni-Solar panels are also well known for their shade resistance through the use of bypass diodes. In plain language, if part of the panel is in shade the unshaded portion of the panel is better able to pass along it’s power than pretty much all other brands of solar panel. They also perform better than most panels as they get hotter. Almost all other panels become less productive in the heat. This makes them well suited for mounting on campervans, motor homes and caravans. The Uni-Solar panels are also pretty tough. I’ve read reliable stories and seen pictures of Uni-Solar panels that have come off car roof and still been useable.
Uni-Solar produce rigid panels and flexible ones. That’s right, solar panels you can roll up. The large rigid 64 Watt solar panels usually sell for $590-$640 (plus shipping), depending on demand and availability. There has been a supply issue with them in the past but I think that has been resolved. Smaller flexible panels are more expensive per watt. These are the only large panels that I would recommend paying more than $10 per watt on. The flexible panels are used a lot for marine use such as sailing boats as they are very weather proof.
My personal experience with the Uni-Solar panels are that they have been reliable, easy to maintain and produce good useable power. They are also easy to wire up, having a large junction box for easy wiring. I have had no issues with them. They work fine.
Sharp. (5% Negative Tolerance)
I think that up until recently Sharp was the largest manufacturer of solar panels in the world. Their technology is mature, as they have had a lot of experience with making solar panels. Generally Sharp make panels in the 80-120 Watt range, with a few smaller ones. They make rigid panels only. Their panels are easily recognizable as they tend to have square cells that cover the entire panel surface.
I have brought a 55 Watt Sharp panel in the past and had no problems with it. I can certainly recommend them. Most Sharp panels are manufactured and used in Germany where there are some pretty impressive solar power stations.
SolarWorld (3% Negative Tolerance)
Another good manufacturer and one of the best tolerance ratings in the market
Reliagen (3% Negative Tolerance)
A great manufacturer with the best tolerance rating on the market and the best efficiency rating!
Suntech (3% Negative Tolerance)
Suntech is a relatively new beginner in solar power manufacturing. They are a joint Australian - Chinese company created by a dual nationality Chinese-Australian, DR Zhengrong Shi. Although they are new, their solar panels are top notch, and they offer the standard 20 year guarantee on their panels. They produce rigid panels from 2-165 watts . I have an 80 Watt Suntech panel mounted on my campervan. It has performed well, and I have had no issues at all with it in over a year.
BP (5-9% Negative Tolerance)
BP (British Petroleum) is one of the oldest producers of solar panels. Some of their panels have been in use in Australia for 20 years or more now. They tend to produce high wattage solar panels between 80-220 watts. Their panels still tend to have a bit of a retro look with lots of small round photo voltaic solar cells. I have no experience using these panels but I know people who have, and they have not had problems with them.
Kyocera (5% Negative Tolerance)
Kyocera is the world’s largest manufacturer. They have good quality, effiency rating and warranty. Can’t go wrong here.
Mitsubishi (3% Negative Tolerance)
Another great name and product. Can’t go wrong here.
There are many others, but one of the biggest factors to keep in mind is your application. A small remote application for the mountains is a different require than a home large solar power system, and as the quality goes up so does the price. Also, some manufacturers or providers will only sell particular panels in large quantities. So you may have to settle for a lesser quality for your application.
What about these double sided space technology solar panels?
I’ve seen a few of these on eBay recently. I don’t own one, I don’t know anyone that does. However, logic suggests that unless you have a set up that reflects light on to both sides of them, they will only get light on one side. In truth I expect that all solar panels that were mounted in glass without a non transparent backing would work this way. Until I test one of these I am a bit sceptical. If the panel is mounted in glass with no backing it may be more fragile than a normal panel. Still if it comes with a 20 year warranty, maybe it is worth a try, provided the company that makes them will be around in 20 years.
Other forms of alternative / remote area power.
Wind generators.
These are generally new to the market but are coming down in price. Wind turbines and wind generators generally will produce more power than solar panels. Typical small systems will generate about 200 watts of power. That is more than my 4 solar panels put together. These units are small, light weight and reasonably easy to set up. I have seen one of these set up as a demo model. It certainly managed to produce a lot of power. One problem with them though is that unlike solar panels they have moving parts and will require maintenance.
Wind generators come in much larger sizes though. 24 volt 700 watt models can be brought for under $1000. This represents much better value for money if the wind generator is able to provide power at a steady rate. Wind generators will not generate power if there is no wind, but unlike solar panels, they can generate power at night.
Petrol / Diesel Generators.
You might think that generators are not exactly alternative power, but they certainly are useful remote area power. You should not rule them out. Particularly as a small generator could provide you with all your power needs. A small generator of reasonable quality could cost less than $200. Considering that four solar panels might cost you about $2500 that would leave a lot of money left over for fuel to run the generator. Generators however usually don’t last 20 years. They require maintenance, refuelling, repairs and eventual replacement. They are also noisy. However, they provide almost the only reliable guarantee of power when you
Solar Power System Basics
The purpose of the information on this page to provide a basic understanding of the major components in a basic solar power system, and to help you identify and select the correct size components for your system.
The following diagram shows the major components in a typical basic solar power system.
The solar panel converts sunlight into DC electricity to charge the battery. This DC electricity is fed to the battery via a solar regulator or controller which ensures the battery is charged properly and not damaged (over charging, to fast or to high a charging current). DC appliances can be powered directly from the battery, but AC appliances require an inverter to convert the DC electricity into 120/240 Volt AC power.
Solar Panels
Solar panels are classified according to their rated power output in Watts. This rating is the amount of power the solar panel would be expected to produce in 1 peak sun hour. Different geographical locations receive different quantities of average peak sun hours per day.
As an example, in some areas the yearly average is around 5.6. The monthly figures for this area range from above 6.5 in June to below 4 in December. This means that an 80W solar panel would produce around 520W per day in June and around 320W per day in December, but based on the average figure of 5.6, it would produce a yearly average of around 450W per day. Solar panels can be wired in series or in parallel to increase voltage or current respectively. The rated terminal voltage of a solar panel is usually around 17.0 volts, but through the use of a regulator, this voltage is reduced to around 13 or 14 volts as required for battery charging. Solar panel output is affected by the cell operating temperature. Panels are rated at a nominal temperature of 25 degrees Celsius. The output of a solar panel can be expected to vary by 2.5% for every 5 degrees variation in temperature. As the temperature increases, the output decreases. With this in mind, it is worth noting that, if the panels are very cool due to cloud cover, and the sun bursts through the cloud, it is possible to exceed the rated output of the panel. Keep this in mind when sizing your solar regulator.
Solar Regulators
The purpose of solar regulators, or charge controllers as they are also called, is to regulate the current from the solar panels to prevent the batteries from overcharging. Overcharging causes gassing and loss of electrolyte resulting in damage to the batteries. A solar regulator is used to sense when the batteries are fully charged and to stop, or decrease, the amount of current flowing to the battery. Most solar regulators also include a Low Voltage Disconnect feature, which will switch off the supply to the load if the battery voltage falls below the cut-off voltage. This prevents the battery from permanent damage and reduced life expectancy. A solar regulator also prevents the battery from backfeeding into the solar panel at night and, hence, flattening the battery. Solar regulators are rated by the amount of current they can receive from the solar panels. See section below for information on correctly sizing a solar regulator.
Inverters
An inverter is a device which converts the DC power in a battery to 120/240V AC electricity. Inverters come in two basic output designs, sine wave and modified sine wave (squarewave). Most AC devices will work fine on the modified sinewave inverter, but there are some exceptions. Devices such as laser printers can be damaged when run on modified sinewave power. Motors and power supplies usually run warmer and less efficiently, and some things, like fans, amplifiers, and cheap fluorescent lights, give off an audible buzz on modified sinewave power. However, modified sinewave inverters make the conversion from DC to AC very efficiently, and they are relatively inexpensive. Sinewave inverters provide AC power that is virtually identical to, and often cleaner than, power from the grid. Inverters are generally rated by the amount of AC power they can supply continuously. Manufacturers generally also provide 5 second and 1/2 hour surge figures. The surge figures give an idea of how much power can be supplied by the inverter for 5 seconds and 1/2 an hour before the inverter's overload protection trips and cuts the power.
Solar Batteries
Deep cycle batteries that are used in solar power systems are designed to be discharged over a long period of time (e.g. 100 hours) and recharged hundreds or thousands of times, unlike conventional car batteries which are designed to provide a large amount of current for a short amount of time. To ensure long battery life, deep cycle batteries should not be discharged beyond 70% of their capacity. i.e 30 % capacity remaining. Discharging beyond this level will significantly reduce the life of the batteries. Deep cycle batteries are rated in Ampere Hours (Ah). This rating also includes a discharge rate, usually at 20 or 100 hours. This rating specifies the amount of current in Amps that the battery can supply over the specified number of hours. As an example, a battery rated at 120Ah at the 100 hour rate can supply a total of 120A over a period of 100 hours. This would equate to 1.2A per hour. Due to internal heating at higher discharge rates, the same battery could supply 110Ah at the 20 hour rate, or 5.5A per hour for 20 hours. In practice, this battery could run a 60W 12VDC TV for over 20 hours before being completely drained. There are many factors that can affect the performance and life of a battery bank. It is highly recommended that you speak with an experienced solar power system installer or solar battery provider prior to making any significant battery purchase. A solar regulator must be able to handle the maximum current that can be produced by the solar panels. Reflected sunlight and specific temperature conditions can increase the output current of a solar panel by as much as 25% above it's rated output current. The solar regulator must be sized to handle the increased current. Solar regulators often short the solar panel input when regulating. This does not damage the solar panel, but it does mean that the solar regulator must be sized to handle 125% of the solar panel's rated short circuit current. Example: A BP Solar 80W solar panel has a rated output current of 4.55 Amps and a rated short circuit current of 4.8 Amps. Minimum solar regulator size for a single BP Solar 80W panel would be: 4.8 Amps x 1.25 = 6 Amps. It is recommended that the regulator selected is even slightly larger than this figure to ensure that it is not constantly operating at 100% of its rating, particularly in regions with higher ambient temperatures. In order for you to size the system correctly, you need to note the power rating of each appliance that will be drawing power from the system.
For this example, we will calculate the power requirements for a campervan with:
2 x 15W 12VDC Fluorescent Lights
1 x 60W 12VDC Water Pump
1 x 48W 12VDC Fridge
1 x 50W 240VAC TV
1 x 600W 240VAC Microwave
(Note that a 600W microwave will consume approximately 900W of power)
Calculate total DC and AC loads:
DC Loads
Lighting - 2 x 15W = 30W DC Lights - each used 2 hours per day => 30W x 2hrs = 60Wh/day
Pump - 1 x 60W DC Pump - used 1/4 hour per day => 60W x .25hrs = 15Wh/day
Fridge - 1 x 48W Fridge - runs 8 hours per day => 48W x 8hrs = 384Wh/day
Total for DC Loads = 459Wh/day (Note: no inverter needed for the DC loads, so therefore no efficiency calculation. See AC section below)
AC Loads
Television - 1 x 50W - used 2 hours per day => 50W x 2hrs = 100Wh/day
Microwave - 1 x 900W - used 15 min per day => 900 x .25hrs = 225Wh/day
Total for AC Loads = 325Wh/day Calculating for inverter efficiency typically at 85% => 325Wh/day / .85 = 382Wh per day
Total for AC & DC Loads => 459 + 382 = 841Wh per day
In Central to Northern NSW expect a usable average of around 5 peak sun hours per day. Required solar panel input = (841Wh / 5h) * 1.4 = 235W Note: The 1.4 used in this formula is a factor we have found that can be used to simplify the calculations for basic systems.
To ensure that adequate power is produced in the winter months, use a figure of around 4.0 to 4.5 peak sun hours per day instead of 5.
Select solar panels to provide a minimum of 235W. Always best to go bigger if possible:
2 x 123W solar panels chosen which, when connected in parallel, will provide 246W or 14.47 Amps (246W / 17v= 14.47).
Note: 17v is the voltage output of the solar panel, do not use the voltage output of the regulator or controller to calculate.
The regulator or controller is selected by determining the maximum amperage. The rated short circuit current of the 123W solar panels is 8.1 Amps each (provided by the manufacturer), giving a total of 16.2 Amps. Select a solar regulator that is more than capable of handling the total short circuit current:16.2 x 1.25 = 20.25 Amps
The Steca 30Amp regulator is chosen.
Note that, as described in the notes above, you must allow 25% extra capacity or overload factor in the regulator rating as solar panels can exceed their rated output in particular cool sunny conditions. A 30A regulator will allow for an additional panel in the future as well. Hence the multiplier of 1.25 or 125% overload factor.
Select an inverter that is more than capable of supplying the maximum anticipated combined AC load required. In this example, maximum load would occur if the microwave and TV were running at the same time. Load in this case would be 900W + 50W = 950W.
Note that this calculation assumes that the inverter selected has a suitable surge rating to cope with the start-up surges of the microwave or other loads. A 1000W microwave would appear to be suitable, but a 1200W - 1500W inverter would be recommended.
1200Watt pure sine wave inverter chosen.
Note: A pure sinewave inverter is the preferred choice, but if the budget is tight, a modified sine wave unit could be used.
Select a battery, or a matched combination of batteries, that is capable of supplying the total power usage without being discharged more than 70%. In most cases it is recommended that the batteries are sized such that they have around 3 to 4 days back-up capacity. This allows for days with low sunlight and reduces the daily depth of discharge resulting in longer battery life.
With 3 days storage capacity, the battery sizing would be as follows:
Ah Required = ((Total Watthours designed for {see Sec 1 total calculated load} x # days / operating voltage of batteries) / x desired reserve in % {see Sec. 6}) x efficiency of batteries {typically 90% or a multiplier of 1.1}
Ah Required = ((841Wh x 3 days / 12V) / .7) x 1.1 = 330 Ah
(841Wh * 3 / 12V) / 0.7 * 1.1 = 330Ah.
Batteries purchased should match 330 Ah as close as possible. On a 12V system, and using 6v batteries in series, each battery can provide ½ of this rating, i.e., purchase 2 – 165 Ah batteries
Note: The appliance ratings used in the above examples may not be accurate. They have been used for example purposes only. Check the ratings on your appliances before performing any calculations. This calculation demonstrates one simplified method of calculating the solar power requirements for a campervan or similar set-up. When sizing a larger system, such as a system for a house, there are many other factors that need to be taken into account to ensure the system performs as required. These include, but are not limited to, solar panel output tolerance, battery temperatures and discharge rates, system autonomy ie. catering for days without adequate sunlight, etc. Seek the advice and assistance of a SEIA accredited designer before constructing a larger renewable energy system. ormation. Remote, Grid Interactive and
The following diagram shows the major components in a typical basic solar power system.
The solar panel converts sunlight into DC electricity to charge the battery. This DC electricity is fed to the battery via a solar regulator or controller which ensures the battery is charged properly and not damaged (over charging, to fast or to high a charging current). DC appliances can be powered directly from the battery, but AC appliances require an inverter to convert the DC electricity into 120/240 Volt AC power.
Solar Panels
Solar panels are classified according to their rated power output in Watts. This rating is the amount of power the solar panel would be expected to produce in 1 peak sun hour. Different geographical locations receive different quantities of average peak sun hours per day.
As an example, in some areas the yearly average is around 5.6. The monthly figures for this area range from above 6.5 in June to below 4 in December. This means that an 80W solar panel would produce around 520W per day in June and around 320W per day in December, but based on the average figure of 5.6, it would produce a yearly average of around 450W per day. Solar panels can be wired in series or in parallel to increase voltage or current respectively. The rated terminal voltage of a solar panel is usually around 17.0 volts, but through the use of a regulator, this voltage is reduced to around 13 or 14 volts as required for battery charging. Solar panel output is affected by the cell operating temperature. Panels are rated at a nominal temperature of 25 degrees Celsius. The output of a solar panel can be expected to vary by 2.5% for every 5 degrees variation in temperature. As the temperature increases, the output decreases. With this in mind, it is worth noting that, if the panels are very cool due to cloud cover, and the sun bursts through the cloud, it is possible to exceed the rated output of the panel. Keep this in mind when sizing your solar regulator.
Solar Regulators
The purpose of solar regulators, or charge controllers as they are also called, is to regulate the current from the solar panels to prevent the batteries from overcharging. Overcharging causes gassing and loss of electrolyte resulting in damage to the batteries. A solar regulator is used to sense when the batteries are fully charged and to stop, or decrease, the amount of current flowing to the battery. Most solar regulators also include a Low Voltage Disconnect feature, which will switch off the supply to the load if the battery voltage falls below the cut-off voltage. This prevents the battery from permanent damage and reduced life expectancy. A solar regulator also prevents the battery from backfeeding into the solar panel at night and, hence, flattening the battery. Solar regulators are rated by the amount of current they can receive from the solar panels. See section below for information on correctly sizing a solar regulator.
Inverters
An inverter is a device which converts the DC power in a battery to 120/240V AC electricity. Inverters come in two basic output designs, sine wave and modified sine wave (squarewave). Most AC devices will work fine on the modified sinewave inverter, but there are some exceptions. Devices such as laser printers can be damaged when run on modified sinewave power. Motors and power supplies usually run warmer and less efficiently, and some things, like fans, amplifiers, and cheap fluorescent lights, give off an audible buzz on modified sinewave power. However, modified sinewave inverters make the conversion from DC to AC very efficiently, and they are relatively inexpensive. Sinewave inverters provide AC power that is virtually identical to, and often cleaner than, power from the grid. Inverters are generally rated by the amount of AC power they can supply continuously. Manufacturers generally also provide 5 second and 1/2 hour surge figures. The surge figures give an idea of how much power can be supplied by the inverter for 5 seconds and 1/2 an hour before the inverter's overload protection trips and cuts the power.
Solar Batteries
Deep cycle batteries that are used in solar power systems are designed to be discharged over a long period of time (e.g. 100 hours) and recharged hundreds or thousands of times, unlike conventional car batteries which are designed to provide a large amount of current for a short amount of time. To ensure long battery life, deep cycle batteries should not be discharged beyond 70% of their capacity. i.e 30 % capacity remaining. Discharging beyond this level will significantly reduce the life of the batteries. Deep cycle batteries are rated in Ampere Hours (Ah). This rating also includes a discharge rate, usually at 20 or 100 hours. This rating specifies the amount of current in Amps that the battery can supply over the specified number of hours. As an example, a battery rated at 120Ah at the 100 hour rate can supply a total of 120A over a period of 100 hours. This would equate to 1.2A per hour. Due to internal heating at higher discharge rates, the same battery could supply 110Ah at the 20 hour rate, or 5.5A per hour for 20 hours. In practice, this battery could run a 60W 12VDC TV for over 20 hours before being completely drained. There are many factors that can affect the performance and life of a battery bank. It is highly recommended that you speak with an experienced solar power system installer or solar battery provider prior to making any significant battery purchase. A solar regulator must be able to handle the maximum current that can be produced by the solar panels. Reflected sunlight and specific temperature conditions can increase the output current of a solar panel by as much as 25% above it's rated output current. The solar regulator must be sized to handle the increased current. Solar regulators often short the solar panel input when regulating. This does not damage the solar panel, but it does mean that the solar regulator must be sized to handle 125% of the solar panel's rated short circuit current. Example: A BP Solar 80W solar panel has a rated output current of 4.55 Amps and a rated short circuit current of 4.8 Amps. Minimum solar regulator size for a single BP Solar 80W panel would be: 4.8 Amps x 1.25 = 6 Amps. It is recommended that the regulator selected is even slightly larger than this figure to ensure that it is not constantly operating at 100% of its rating, particularly in regions with higher ambient temperatures. In order for you to size the system correctly, you need to note the power rating of each appliance that will be drawing power from the system.
For this example, we will calculate the power requirements for a campervan with:
2 x 15W 12VDC Fluorescent Lights
1 x 60W 12VDC Water Pump
1 x 48W 12VDC Fridge
1 x 50W 240VAC TV
1 x 600W 240VAC Microwave
(Note that a 600W microwave will consume approximately 900W of power)
Calculate total DC and AC loads:
DC Loads
Lighting - 2 x 15W = 30W DC Lights - each used 2 hours per day => 30W x 2hrs = 60Wh/day
Pump - 1 x 60W DC Pump - used 1/4 hour per day => 60W x .25hrs = 15Wh/day
Fridge - 1 x 48W Fridge - runs 8 hours per day => 48W x 8hrs = 384Wh/day
Total for DC Loads = 459Wh/day (Note: no inverter needed for the DC loads, so therefore no efficiency calculation. See AC section below)
AC Loads
Television - 1 x 50W - used 2 hours per day => 50W x 2hrs = 100Wh/day
Microwave - 1 x 900W - used 15 min per day => 900 x .25hrs = 225Wh/day
Total for AC Loads = 325Wh/day Calculating for inverter efficiency typically at 85% => 325Wh/day / .85 = 382Wh per day
Total for AC & DC Loads => 459 + 382 = 841Wh per day
In Central to Northern NSW expect a usable average of around 5 peak sun hours per day. Required solar panel input = (841Wh / 5h) * 1.4 = 235W Note: The 1.4 used in this formula is a factor we have found that can be used to simplify the calculations for basic systems.
To ensure that adequate power is produced in the winter months, use a figure of around 4.0 to 4.5 peak sun hours per day instead of 5.
Select solar panels to provide a minimum of 235W. Always best to go bigger if possible:
2 x 123W solar panels chosen which, when connected in parallel, will provide 246W or 14.47 Amps (246W / 17v= 14.47).
Note: 17v is the voltage output of the solar panel, do not use the voltage output of the regulator or controller to calculate.
The regulator or controller is selected by determining the maximum amperage. The rated short circuit current of the 123W solar panels is 8.1 Amps each (provided by the manufacturer), giving a total of 16.2 Amps. Select a solar regulator that is more than capable of handling the total short circuit current:16.2 x 1.25 = 20.25 Amps
The Steca 30Amp regulator is chosen.
Note that, as described in the notes above, you must allow 25% extra capacity or overload factor in the regulator rating as solar panels can exceed their rated output in particular cool sunny conditions. A 30A regulator will allow for an additional panel in the future as well. Hence the multiplier of 1.25 or 125% overload factor.
Select an inverter that is more than capable of supplying the maximum anticipated combined AC load required. In this example, maximum load would occur if the microwave and TV were running at the same time. Load in this case would be 900W + 50W = 950W.
Note that this calculation assumes that the inverter selected has a suitable surge rating to cope with the start-up surges of the microwave or other loads. A 1000W microwave would appear to be suitable, but a 1200W - 1500W inverter would be recommended.
1200Watt pure sine wave inverter chosen.
Note: A pure sinewave inverter is the preferred choice, but if the budget is tight, a modified sine wave unit could be used.
Select a battery, or a matched combination of batteries, that is capable of supplying the total power usage without being discharged more than 70%. In most cases it is recommended that the batteries are sized such that they have around 3 to 4 days back-up capacity. This allows for days with low sunlight and reduces the daily depth of discharge resulting in longer battery life.
With 3 days storage capacity, the battery sizing would be as follows:
Ah Required = ((Total Watthours designed for {see Sec 1 total calculated load} x # days / operating voltage of batteries) / x desired reserve in % {see Sec. 6}) x efficiency of batteries {typically 90% or a multiplier of 1.1}
Ah Required = ((841Wh x 3 days / 12V) / .7) x 1.1 = 330 Ah
(841Wh * 3 / 12V) / 0.7 * 1.1 = 330Ah.
Batteries purchased should match 330 Ah as close as possible. On a 12V system, and using 6v batteries in series, each battery can provide ½ of this rating, i.e., purchase 2 – 165 Ah batteries
Note: The appliance ratings used in the above examples may not be accurate. They have been used for example purposes only. Check the ratings on your appliances before performing any calculations. This calculation demonstrates one simplified method of calculating the solar power requirements for a campervan or similar set-up. When sizing a larger system, such as a system for a house, there are many other factors that need to be taken into account to ensure the system performs as required. These include, but are not limited to, solar panel output tolerance, battery temperatures and discharge rates, system autonomy ie. catering for days without adequate sunlight, etc. Seek the advice and assistance of a SEIA accredited designer before constructing a larger renewable energy system. ormation. Remote, Grid Interactive and
Worksheet for Sizing Solar Batteries
Solar4Power.com - Battery Size Workform - Home - Main Index
1. Total average amp hours per day from the System Loads Worksheet, line 10.
2. Maximum number of continuous cloudy days expected in your area.
3. Multiply line 1 by line 2.
4. Divide line 3 by (maximum) 0.8 to maintain a 20% reserve after deep discharge period. To prevent less than a maximum 80% discharge divide by a lessor number in #4 above. If no special conditions below apply, skip lines 5 through 9 and proceed to line 10.
Special Conditon #1: Heavy electrical load
5. Maximum amperage that will be drawn by the loads for 10 minutes or more.
6. Discharge rate of battery. If unknown, check with battery supplier.
7. Multiply line 5 by line 6.
Special condition #2: High Charge Current
8. Maximum output amperage of PV array or other battery charger.
9. Multiply line 8 by 10.0 hours.
10. Amp hours from line 4, 7, or 9, whichever is largest.
11. If you are using a lead-acid battery, select the multiplier below which corresponds to the battery's winter time average ambient temperature:
Battery Temperature Multiplier
80°F/26.7°C 1.00
70°F/21.2°C 1.04
60°F/15.6°C 1.11
50°F/10.0°C 1.19
40°F/4.4°C 1.30
30°F/-1.1°C 1.40
20°F/-6.7°C 1.59
12. Multiply line 11 by line 10. This is your optimum battery size in amp-hours.
13. Amp-hours of battery chosen. (Example: Concorde 1040T = 104Ah/24 hrs. and 120Ah/120 hrs. etc.)
(Note: The faster the discharge the less total reserve amp-hour capacity)
14. Divide line 12 by line 13. This is the total number of batteries in parallel required.
15. Round off to the next highest whole number.
1. Total average amp hours per day from the System Loads Worksheet, line 10.
2. Maximum number of continuous cloudy days expected in your area.
3. Multiply line 1 by line 2.
4. Divide line 3 by (maximum) 0.8 to maintain a 20% reserve after deep discharge period. To prevent less than a maximum 80% discharge divide by a lessor number in #4 above. If no special conditions below apply, skip lines 5 through 9 and proceed to line 10.
Special Conditon #1: Heavy electrical load
5. Maximum amperage that will be drawn by the loads for 10 minutes or more.
6. Discharge rate of battery. If unknown, check with battery supplier.
7. Multiply line 5 by line 6.
Special condition #2: High Charge Current
8. Maximum output amperage of PV array or other battery charger.
9. Multiply line 8 by 10.0 hours.
10. Amp hours from line 4, 7, or 9, whichever is largest.
11. If you are using a lead-acid battery, select the multiplier below which corresponds to the battery's winter time average ambient temperature:
Battery Temperature Multiplier
80°F/26.7°C 1.00
70°F/21.2°C 1.04
60°F/15.6°C 1.11
50°F/10.0°C 1.19
40°F/4.4°C 1.30
30°F/-1.1°C 1.40
20°F/-6.7°C 1.59
12. Multiply line 11 by line 10. This is your optimum battery size in amp-hours.
13. Amp-hours of battery chosen. (Example: Concorde 1040T = 104Ah/24 hrs. and 120Ah/120 hrs. etc.)
(Note: The faster the discharge the less total reserve amp-hour capacity)
14. Divide line 12 by line 13. This is the total number of batteries in parallel required.
15. Round off to the next highest whole number.
U.S. Cities Solar Index
Solar Insolation for U.S. Major Cities
This chart shows solar insolation in kilowatt-hours per square meter per day in many US locations. For simplicity, we call this figure "Sun Hours / Day".
To find average sun hours per day in your area (column 5), check local weather data, look at the maps at the bottom of this page, or find a city in the table below that has similar weather to your location.
If you want year-round autonomy, use the lowest figure. If you want only 100% autonomy in summer, use the highest figure.
State City High Low Avg State City High Low Avg
AK Fairbanks 5.87 2.12 3.99 MO Columbia 5.50 3.97 4.73
AK Matanuska 5.24 1.74 3.55 MO St. Louis 4.87 3.24 4.38
AL Montgomery 4.69 3.37 4.23 MS Meridian 4.86 3.64 4.43
AR Bethel 6.29 2.37 3.81 MT Glasgow 5.97 4.09 5.15
AR Little Rock 5.29 3.88 4.69 MT Great Falls 5.70 3.66 4.93
AZ Tucson 7.42 6.01 6.57 MT Summit 5.17 2.36 3.99
AZ Page 7.30 5.65 6.36 NM Albuquerque 7.16 6.21 6.77
AZ Phoenix 7.13 5.78 6.58 NB Lincoln 5.40 4.38 4.79
CA Santa Maria 6.52 5.42 5.94 NB N. Omaha 5.28 4.26 4.90
CA Riverside 6.35 5.35 5.87 NC Cape Hatteras 5.81 4.69 5.31
CA Davis 6.09 3.31 5.10 NC Greensboro 5.05 4.00 4.71
CA Fresno 6.19 3.42 5.38 ND Bismark 5.48 3.97 5.01
CA Los Angeles 6.14 5.03 5.62 NJ Sea Brook 4.76 3.20 4.21
CA Soda Springs 6.47 4.40 5.60 NV Las Vegas 7.13 5.84 6.41
CA La Jolla 5.24 4.29 4.77 NV Ely 6.48 5.49 5.98
CA Inyokern 8.70 6.87 7.66 NY Binghamton 3.93 1.62 3.16
CO Grandby 7.47 5.15 5.69 NY Ithaca 4.57 2.29 3.79
CO Grand Lake 5.86 3.56 5.08 NY Schenectady 3.92 2.53 3.55
CO Grand Junction 6.34 5.23 5.85 NY Rochester 4.22 1.58 3.31
CO Boulder 5.72 4.44 4.87 NY New York City 4.97 3.03 4.08
DC Washington 4.69 3.37 4.23 OH Columbus 5.26 2.66 4.15
FL Apalachicola 5.98 4.92 5.49 OH Cleveland 4.79 2.69 3.94
FL Belie Is. 5.31 4.58 4.99 OK Stillwater 5.52 4.22 4.99
FL Miami 6.26 5.05 5.62 OK Oklahoma City 6.26 4.98 5.59
FL Gainsville 5.81 4.71 5.27 OR Astoria 4.76 1.99 3.72
FL Tampa 6.16 5.26 5.67 OR Corvallis 5.71 1.90 4.03
GA Atlanta 5.16 4.09 4.74 OR Medford 5.84 2.02 4.51
GA Griffin 5.41 4.26 4.99 PA Pittsburg 4.19 1.45 3.28
HI Honolulu 6.71 5.59 6.02 PA State College 4.44 2.79 3.91
IA Ames 4.80 3.73 4.40 RI Newport 4.69 3.58 4.23
ID Boise 5.83 3.33 4.92 SC Charleston 5.72 4.23 5.06
ID Twin Falls 5.42 3.42 4.70 SD Rapid City 5.91 4.56 5.23
IL Chicago 4.08 1.47 3.14 TN Nashville 5.20 3.14 4.45
IN Indianapolis 5.02 2.55 4.21 TN Oak Ridge 5.06 3.22 4.37
KS Manhattan 5.08 3.62 4.57 TX San Antonio 5.88 4.65 5.30
KS Dodge City 4.14 5.28 5.79 TX Brownsville 5.49 4.42 4.92
KY Lexington 5.97 3.60 4.94 TX El Paso 7.42 5.87 6.72
LA Lake Charles 5.73 4.29 4.93 TX Midland 6.33 5.23 5.83
LA New Orleans 5.71 3.63 4.92 TX Fort Worth 6.00 4.80 5.43
LA Shreveport 4.99 3.87 4.63 UT Salt Lake City 6.09 3.78 5.26
MA E. Wareham 4.48 3.06 3.99 UT Flaming Gorge 6.63 5.48 5.83
MA Boston 4.27 2.99 3.84 VA Richmond 4.50 3.37 4.13
MA Blue Hill 4.38 3.33 4.05 WA Seattle 4.83 1.60 3.57
MA Natick 4.62 3.09 4.10 WA Richland 6.13 2.01 4.44
MA Lynn 4.60 2.33 3.79 WA Pullman 6.07 2.90 4.73
MD Silver Hill 4.71 3.84 4.47 WA Spokane 5.53 1.16 4.48
ME Caribou 5.62 2.57 4.19 WA Prosser 6.21 3.06 5.03
ME Portland 5.23 3.56 4.51 WI Madison 4.85 3.28 4.29
MI Sault Ste. Marie 4.83 2.33 4.20 WV Charleston 4.12 2.47 3.65
MI E. Lansing 4.71 2.70 4.00 WY Lander 6.81 5.50 6.06
MN St. Cloud 5.43 3.53 4.53
This chart shows solar insolation in kilowatt-hours per square meter per day in many US locations. For simplicity, we call this figure "Sun Hours / Day".
To find average sun hours per day in your area (column 5), check local weather data, look at the maps at the bottom of this page, or find a city in the table below that has similar weather to your location.
If you want year-round autonomy, use the lowest figure. If you want only 100% autonomy in summer, use the highest figure.
State City High Low Avg State City High Low Avg
AK Fairbanks 5.87 2.12 3.99 MO Columbia 5.50 3.97 4.73
AK Matanuska 5.24 1.74 3.55 MO St. Louis 4.87 3.24 4.38
AL Montgomery 4.69 3.37 4.23 MS Meridian 4.86 3.64 4.43
AR Bethel 6.29 2.37 3.81 MT Glasgow 5.97 4.09 5.15
AR Little Rock 5.29 3.88 4.69 MT Great Falls 5.70 3.66 4.93
AZ Tucson 7.42 6.01 6.57 MT Summit 5.17 2.36 3.99
AZ Page 7.30 5.65 6.36 NM Albuquerque 7.16 6.21 6.77
AZ Phoenix 7.13 5.78 6.58 NB Lincoln 5.40 4.38 4.79
CA Santa Maria 6.52 5.42 5.94 NB N. Omaha 5.28 4.26 4.90
CA Riverside 6.35 5.35 5.87 NC Cape Hatteras 5.81 4.69 5.31
CA Davis 6.09 3.31 5.10 NC Greensboro 5.05 4.00 4.71
CA Fresno 6.19 3.42 5.38 ND Bismark 5.48 3.97 5.01
CA Los Angeles 6.14 5.03 5.62 NJ Sea Brook 4.76 3.20 4.21
CA Soda Springs 6.47 4.40 5.60 NV Las Vegas 7.13 5.84 6.41
CA La Jolla 5.24 4.29 4.77 NV Ely 6.48 5.49 5.98
CA Inyokern 8.70 6.87 7.66 NY Binghamton 3.93 1.62 3.16
CO Grandby 7.47 5.15 5.69 NY Ithaca 4.57 2.29 3.79
CO Grand Lake 5.86 3.56 5.08 NY Schenectady 3.92 2.53 3.55
CO Grand Junction 6.34 5.23 5.85 NY Rochester 4.22 1.58 3.31
CO Boulder 5.72 4.44 4.87 NY New York City 4.97 3.03 4.08
DC Washington 4.69 3.37 4.23 OH Columbus 5.26 2.66 4.15
FL Apalachicola 5.98 4.92 5.49 OH Cleveland 4.79 2.69 3.94
FL Belie Is. 5.31 4.58 4.99 OK Stillwater 5.52 4.22 4.99
FL Miami 6.26 5.05 5.62 OK Oklahoma City 6.26 4.98 5.59
FL Gainsville 5.81 4.71 5.27 OR Astoria 4.76 1.99 3.72
FL Tampa 6.16 5.26 5.67 OR Corvallis 5.71 1.90 4.03
GA Atlanta 5.16 4.09 4.74 OR Medford 5.84 2.02 4.51
GA Griffin 5.41 4.26 4.99 PA Pittsburg 4.19 1.45 3.28
HI Honolulu 6.71 5.59 6.02 PA State College 4.44 2.79 3.91
IA Ames 4.80 3.73 4.40 RI Newport 4.69 3.58 4.23
ID Boise 5.83 3.33 4.92 SC Charleston 5.72 4.23 5.06
ID Twin Falls 5.42 3.42 4.70 SD Rapid City 5.91 4.56 5.23
IL Chicago 4.08 1.47 3.14 TN Nashville 5.20 3.14 4.45
IN Indianapolis 5.02 2.55 4.21 TN Oak Ridge 5.06 3.22 4.37
KS Manhattan 5.08 3.62 4.57 TX San Antonio 5.88 4.65 5.30
KS Dodge City 4.14 5.28 5.79 TX Brownsville 5.49 4.42 4.92
KY Lexington 5.97 3.60 4.94 TX El Paso 7.42 5.87 6.72
LA Lake Charles 5.73 4.29 4.93 TX Midland 6.33 5.23 5.83
LA New Orleans 5.71 3.63 4.92 TX Fort Worth 6.00 4.80 5.43
LA Shreveport 4.99 3.87 4.63 UT Salt Lake City 6.09 3.78 5.26
MA E. Wareham 4.48 3.06 3.99 UT Flaming Gorge 6.63 5.48 5.83
MA Boston 4.27 2.99 3.84 VA Richmond 4.50 3.37 4.13
MA Blue Hill 4.38 3.33 4.05 WA Seattle 4.83 1.60 3.57
MA Natick 4.62 3.09 4.10 WA Richland 6.13 2.01 4.44
MA Lynn 4.60 2.33 3.79 WA Pullman 6.07 2.90 4.73
MD Silver Hill 4.71 3.84 4.47 WA Spokane 5.53 1.16 4.48
ME Caribou 5.62 2.57 4.19 WA Prosser 6.21 3.06 5.03
ME Portland 5.23 3.56 4.51 WI Madison 4.85 3.28 4.29
MI Sault Ste. Marie 4.83 2.33 4.20 WV Charleston 4.12 2.47 3.65
MI E. Lansing 4.71 2.70 4.00 WY Lander 6.81 5.50 6.06
MN St. Cloud 5.43 3.53 4.53
How to Keep From Freezing
Clothing and Heating
Why Are We Here Today?
Inspired Counsel from Church Leaders:
“Concerning clothing, we should anticipate future needs, such as extra work clothes and clothes that would supply warmth during winter months when there may be shortages or lack of heating fuel Wood, coal, gas, oil, kerosene, and even candles are among those items which could be reserved as fuel for warmth, cooking, and light or power. Some may be used for all of these purposes and certain ones would have to be stored and handled cautiously”. Elder Benson “Prepare Ye” Ensign Jan 1974
“We do not know when the calamities and troubles of the last days will fall upon any of us as
individuals or upon bodies of the Saints. The Lord deliberately withholds from us the day and hour of his coming and of the tribulations which shall precede it—all as part of the testing and probationary experiences of mortality. He simply tells us to watch and be ready.” Elder McConkie “Stand Independent above All Other Creatures” May 1979
“I believe it is time, and perhaps with some urgency, to review the counsel we have received in dealing with our personal and family preparedness. We want to be found with oil in our lamps sufficient to endure to the end.” “I believe the time to disregard this counsel is over. With events in the world today, it must be considered with all seriousness.” Elder Perry “If Ye Are Prepared Ye Shall Not Fear” Ensign, Nov 1995
“…there were only four things that a man really needed: food, clothing, shelter, and fuel.” Elder Perry “Let Him Do It with Simplicity” Ensign Nov 2008
“There is a portent of stormy weather ahead to which we had better give heed.” Pres Hinckley “To the Boys and to the Men” Ensign Nov 1998
Everyday Examples:
* Every City Prepares for an Emergency – Recommendation from Logan City
Examples:
Earthquakes – Utah is Overdue for a large Earthquake - 5.5 to 8+ on Richter scale
http://earthquake.usgs.gov/eqcenter/recenteqsww/ 420 eq’s 1900-1999; 362 EQ’s 2000-20009 to-date (4.0+)
Ice Storms - 870,000 homes and businesses lost power from Oklahoma to West Virginia – 1/28/09
Wind Storms - Provo City Micro Burst 1995
Katrina Hurricane - 2005
Flooding – Red River 3/28/09
* FERC Commissioner said last summer the power grid was very close to overload. In all probability the electric power grid will fail for a significant length of time within our lives. If we are prepared we will be able to “weather the storm”. There are many aspects to being prepared: Water, Sanitation, Food, Shelter, etc. We will focus on two: Clothing and Heat.
When Utilities Go Down (WUGD)
CLOTHING
An individual can “Weather the Storm” better in cold conditions if they are warm. There are two
basic concepts used in clothing to keep warm: Layering and Foam. Most important principle to
remember: NO COTTON (it keeps the moisture close to your skin and allows body heat to escape).
Layering – Principles: wear several layers of specific types of clothes (add more, or less layers
depending on the conditions, and temperature).
• Base layer - You want a tight fit to skin for wicking the moisture away from the skin. For LDS
Garments, the Church makes a synthetic thermal garment (don’t use any garments with cotton content for this purpose! Use thin, light weight 100% synthetic polyester.). Long johns and tops. Polypropylene is best, but any synthetic material is better than cotton. Look for end of the season sales: Sam’s Club, Shopko, JC Penney. Brand names: CuddlDuds or Chill Chasers. Comes in warm and warmer with inside fleece.
Pros: Inexpensive, about. $5-16 ea piece; easy to pull clothes over as they are slick on outside,
cheap at season-end close outs, two kinds – warm and warmer.
Cons: Not as many choices, have to do the leg work to find the good buys and needed sizes;
however, more stores are carrying these.
• 2nd Layer - Insulating – Snug but more lose fitting. Fabric can be Synthetic polypropylene, polyester & open cell foam; natural wool, silk, fleece, etc. These fabrics stay warm even when wetand dry quickly. Just verify (for cold weather) no cotton content. (100% cotton is great in extremely hot and humid weather. It holds moisture and acts as a natural air conditioner.) Add more insulating layers for conditions and temperature.
• 3rd Layer - Wind/Water Protection – What type is dependant on what temperature you will be subject to. For extreme temperatures (below 28 deg F) Look for synthetic non-sealed (non-waterproof) but tightly woven, wind resistant fabric shell. Remember, you are just trying to keep the wind (heat sucking) off and at these lower temperatures, there is no water (rain, snow melt) to get wet from. For temperatures (above 28 deg F) look for breathable waterproof fabrics (Gore-Tex, etc). Any water proofing will slow down the evaporation process, so only use when you have to and if the outer layer is waterproof and non-breathable, your body moisture will be trapped by the waterproof barrier. Buy water proofing spray cans for when the fabric begins to leak.
US Military Cold Weather Clothing System - Layering
• Available at Smith and Edwards or other Army surplus stores.
• Base layer - Looks like a sweat suit (top and bottom), polypropylene
• 2nd layer (quilted vest or jacket and pants)
• 3rd layer (wind/water breaker jacket or parka and pants
• Booties (to sleep in)
• Caps (can also sleep in to keep body heat in)
• Balaclava - Full head covers with eye opening – fleece
• Gloves and glove liners
• Boots and socks, sock liners
• Pros: Inexpensive and very warm: About $7-10 each piece, coats are more
• Cons: Only come in long, have to hem legs, not attractive
National Brands of Outdoor Cold Weather Layering
• Sold in sporting goods/outdoor stores
• Example: Armour and Cabela’s hunting systems; synthetic, wool, silk
• Pros: Scientifically designed layers; systems for hot, regular, cold and extreme cold; some are
attractive; many choices.
• Cons: Expensive, about $30-40 ea piece, cheaper when on sale, many sales clerks cannot give you the needed info to make decisions
Box Store Brands:
• 2nd layer: Synthetic fleece vests and jackets (can get on close-out sales for about $5 at Old Navy, etc.)
Pros: Inexpensive, esp. on sale, more affordable for families, easy to find
Cons: Takes your time to find sizes and prices, low to intermediate quality and fabrics
• 3rd layer: Wind resistant, water resistant, synthetic coats and pants. Be careful to not purchase a coated fabric because your body moisture cannot escape
Pros: Can find good buys, great for large families, regular winter coats and outdoor pants can be
chosen with this system in mind.
Cons: Lower quality fabrics
Foam Clothing – Principles: Open-cell foam has a nature ability to pull moisture away from the
body and allow it to evaporate.
Foam clothing is the brainchild of Jim Phillips. He has a web site where foam clothing can be purchased or you can make you own. The basic technology is as follows:
Highest Performance Cold
Weather Clothing on Earth!
Anyone can be truly warm and comfortable at temperatures from above freezing to well below
Zero with ease. It's not magic, it's science. The technology and equipment have been in
development for over 30 years. We call it "P.A.L.S." (The Phillips Arctic Living System).
Taken from Jim Phillips Web Site: http://www.jimsway.com
Jim Phillips Thermal Johns™ (TJ's™)
• People can live in smart clothing without heat, even outdoors
• Good for inside or evacuation, when cannot take lots of fuel with you
• Approx. costs:
• Pros: Made to fit, someone else does all the work, best for extreme cold protection, but works in all conditions.
• Cons: Expensive
Home-made Foam Clothing
• Purchase the fabric (contact Jim Phillips or Joan Elder, joan_elder @comcast.net)
• Purchase a sheet of open-cell foam. (contact Jim Phillips or Joan Elder)
• Obtain a pattern, cut and sew.
• You can also purchase synthetic wind breaker or jogging suits on sale and insert the open cell foam into it. Use the suit for the pattern. Don’t use a cotton jogging suit, and fabric must be uncoaed – no rubber or plasticized coating
• Pros: Less expensive but end product can be excellent
• Cons: You have to find materials, time and make the clothing
HEATING - For a House
Water Pipe Freezing
During long term power outage in cold conditions, you must be careful to protect your home from freezing. Most homes will maintain adequate heat for several hours that will keep pipes from freezing (depending on insulation, direct sunlight on the home, outside temperature, etc). However, if the power outage is expected to last several days or a week or more, and you do not have a alternate heat source, or in the case of an evacuation, you must take steps to protect the water piping in the home from freezing. Frozen pipes will often break, and after thawing will cause a lot of damage. Moving water will not freeze as easily, so the easiest short term solution is to open the faucets to allow a slow drip. However, this solution will only protect the lines the water is flowing in (IE opening a bathroom faucet will not protect the water line going to the toilet or shower). The most reliable solution is to drain all the pipes. Before proceeding, ensure you have enough water for your future needs. Locate your main water valve into the home, and close. Open the drain valve on the main line, (sometimes no water will drain until a faucet is opened. Locate the highest faucet in the home and open to the cold water side). This will drain the cold water from the lines. Locate your water heater, and open the drain valve. Turn the opened faucet now to the hot side. Don’t forget your toilet bowls and tanks, clothes washers, dish washers, water and sump pumps (If electricity runs your water pump, a power outage could restrict your water use. Save as much water as possible in covered containers where it will not freeze.), furnace boilers (if you have one, this is not common), shower and sink traps, etc.
If staying in your home with an alternate heat source is an option, but only part of the home will be heated, you may want to install additional valves and drains to isolate the home or use the drip system solution. Each home is unique, so check your options carefully and make your plan now.
Home Protection/Preparation to Prevent Pipe Freezing
• Seal cracks around doors and windows with sealing tape, towels and blankets. Limit area to be heated.
• Select a space on the "warm" side of the house, away from prevailing cold winds. It's best to avoid rooms with large windows or un-insulated walls. Interior rooms, such as inside bathrooms or closets, probably have the lowest heat loss.
• Your basement may be another great option in cold weather because of the heat gain from the
earth.
• Isolate the room from the rest of the house by keeping doors closed. Hanging bedding, heavy
drapes, blankets or towels over entryways, windows, hallways, etc. or erecting temporary partitions of cardboard or plywood.
• If your windows are broken in an earthquake, put heavy visquine plastic, cardboard, or plywood sheets over window frame to seal out cold. Use heavy duty duct tape. Put a layer of clear plastic on the inside and one on the outside of the window frame to make a dead air space between the two layers. Plastic will allow light to come in during the day.
• Do the same with other damaged walls in the house.
Secondary Heat Sources
Cost Comparisons of Fuel Types
The Energy Information Administration's Heating Fuel Comparison Calculator - estimates the
costs to produce 1 million Btu:
$14.39 Wood Pellets
$15.83 Wood Solid.
$5.35 Coal
$19.62 Natural Gas
$22.59 Heating Oil
$27.77 Propane
$30.82 Electric furnaces, baseboards, and space heaters.
Generators – 1st Choice
A standby electric generator is a good investment. It can assure electricity to run the natural gas/liquid propane furnace’s fan and controls. There are several types, sizes and safety rules to follow. Please refer to the class on generators for more information.
• Never run generators indoors or even in the garage; they produce large
amounts of toxic carbon monoxide
• Pros: Small space required, allows running multiple household appliances (depending on unit’s size and loads), easy to use and maintain, very reliable.
• Cons: Requires fuel storage depending on type of generator (gas, propane, diesel), produces
carbon monoxide, noisy although muffler can help, can be expensive depending on size/type
Natural Gas/Propane - VENTED – 2nd Choice
• Gas stove (free standing, vented)
• Gas fireplaces with glass doors
• Gas fireplace insert
• These vented units are excellent and can be used for long-term space heating all winter
• Get a stove than can be later fitted to burn propane in case natural gas goes down (during a long-term electric outage, natural gas pumps will be unable to keep the pressure high enough to use)
• Fuel: Natural gas, Liquid Propane (LP) tanks (tanks should be outside house)
• Pros: Lights easily, relatively inexpensive fuel, fair performance in colder temps, propane works well down to 0°F, readily available, does not harm soil or water, puts out good heat, can cook on some stoves, stores indefinitely.
• Cons: Ignition sources can cause explosions (i.e., water heaters & electrical sources), may need
permit to store large quantities, propane is heavier than air & can collect in low places (i.e.
basements, pits, floors) and can ignite/explode, steel propane cylinders are heavy, large cylinders are difficult to move. 500 gals last approx 1-2 months depending on temp, use, etc.
Wood, VENTED – 2nd Choice
• Wood stove (free standing, vented) – gives great heat
• Wood fireplace insert – some brands radiate good heat
• Wood fireplace with glass doors – good only for temporary heat
• Wood fireplace with no doors – very poor heat, don’t count on it
• Wood furnace in outdoor building – great heat and safer for your house as the
combustion is outside.
• Wood Pellet Stoves – very efficient but requires electricity
• Most Stoves can be converted to burn coal as well. Coal burns hotter, longer per lb.
• Can heat bricks and rocks on some wood stoves; bricks hold heat for some time and radiate it back out, cover with towels and take into other rooms
• Can cook on some wood burning stoves
• Some Good brands (according to Consumer Reports):
Fireview Soapstone Wood Stove ($2500)
Lopi Liberty Wood Stove ($1800)
Napoleon Small Pedestal Wood Stove Package ($1200-$1700)
Jotul F 118 CB Black Bear ($1500)
For more information on manufacturer ratings see: http://hearth.com/ratings/search.php
For more information on wood stoves see: http://www.woodheat.org/technology/woodstoves.htm
• Pros: Fuel is readily available in some areas, you can chop & haul your own, smells nice while
burning, no toxic fumes, can be burned indoors and outdoors
• Cons: Stoves can be more expensive, wood is scarce in some areas, wood burning in non-EPA
approved stoves is banned on “no burn days,” wood fuel requires ample storage space, should be
protected from moisture, requires a year’s seasoning before use, “Know Your Wood” or you will
be stuck with poor burning species.
• Seasoned dry wood: Fire wood must have between 15 - 20% moisture to burn properly. To get that the wood must be cut and allowed to dry for at least a full summer. Wood must be properly stacked, off the ground to dry.
• Types of wood: What is the best tree species for firewood? While there is always room for debate, I would like to suggest that the best species in your area is the one that is most plentiful, easy to split and doesn't cover your hands and clothes with sticky sap. All wood, regardless of species, has about the same energy content per pound. The different species vary only in density. Traditionally, the favored trees in central North America were oak and maple because they are very dense and produce long-lasting coals. But these are valuable trees and in many areas are not plentiful enough to burn. No problem, just use softer woods like birch or poplar (aspen) or any other tree that is readily available. Keep in mind that people living in the coldest areas of North America have no hardwoods to burn and they get along just fine. Ultimately, it is more important to have wood that is cut and split to the right size and properly dried
than it is to get the hardest wood available.
• Stacking Wood: Lay a base for the stack. This can be two two-by-four or two-by-six boards or two long poles or branches. Lay them far enough apart to lay an average piece of firewood. Set the base facing eastwest so your stack will have more sunlight during the winter. Pick out some pieces shaped like halfmoons and quarter-moons. At each end of the pile, place a half-moon piece with the flat side up across the base. Place two quarter-moon pieces at right angles across the half-moon shape, with the angles sides facing down. You now have a solid base for your stack. Stack the firewood across your base, mixing sizes and types of wood as much as possible to provide optimum airflow. Continue stacking until the stack reaches the desired height (best below 4ft). It will also be easier to measure a cord of wood, which is 4 feet high by 4 feet wide by 8 feet high. Cover the stack with a plastic tarp, or build a shelter over the top to keep the wood dry.
Tips & Warnings - Never pile firewood directly on the ground and never stack firewood near your house. Both are invitations for hungry termites that can find their way into your house.
No City restriction on wood storage, just store away from home or garage.
- Rolled newspapers
- Fire Starters
Both are good sources for getting your fire started.
Natural Gas/LP UNVENTED – Low CO Emission - 3rd Choice
(NOTE: All un-vented open-flame or closed flame still burn oxygen, and proper air flow must be
allowed for. Consult manufacturer recommendations.)
• Unvented or Vent Free - natural gas or LP units like this one can be used indoors as they are clean burning. 99% heating efficient
• Vent free units are thermostatically controlled to automatically modulates the heat output and flame height from 16,000 to 30,000 and pilot, in order to maintain a consistent room
temperature.
• Porcelain reflective back creates a third set of "flames" thru screen
front.
• Heats up to 1,000 square feet
• Push button ignition for easy pilot lighting.
• Heater has a pilot with an Oxygen Depletion Sensor Shutoff System (ODS), which shuts off the heater if there is not enough fresh air.
• Requires no electricity to operate the stove.
• Features:
• Ceramic Infrared Burner - Heats like the Sun! 30,000 BTU for the NG
(Natural Gas) or 25,000 BTU for the LP (Liquid Propane)
• Fuel: LP Gas or NG Gas
• 99.9% Fuel Efficient
• Top Mounted Controls
• No Electricity Required
• Safe Watch (tm) Pilot / ODS System
Kozy World WM-KWN321 • Operates without electricity, providing heat during power outages.
(LP OR NG) • Safe, odorless and clean burning
• Variable Heat Control
• Large Heat Output
• Dimensions: 23.5(H) x 26.63(W) x 8.0(D)
• Heating area - approximately 1,000 square feet
• 5 (five) plaques
Comfort Glow RF30T
• Pros: Lights easily, relatively inexpensive fuel, fair performance in colder temps, propane works well down to 0°F, readily available, does not harm soil or water, puts out good heat
• Cons: Stoves can be more expensive. Ignition sources can cause explosions (i.e., water heaters & electrical sources), may need permit to store large quantities, Propane is heavier than air & can collect in low places (i.e. basements, pits, floors) and can ignite, steel propane cylinders are heavy. A vented heater is preferred and recommended.
• Natural gas or LP units emit carbon monoxide and water which can raise the indoor pollution levels too high. Proper ventilation must be provided.
Natural Gas, LP or Kerosene – VENTED – 4th Choice
• Stoves/heaters for the house can be used as emergency or as a space heater all winter
• Great heat for a room or two, 8- 40,000 BTUs for up to 2000 sq ft
• Gives off carbon monoxide which is vented out of the home
• External fuel tanks (outside) for LP & Kerosene. Can hold several weeks’ fuel supply
and can be filled outside Toyo Vented Kerosene Heater
Brands: Toyo (Kerosene), Rinnai (Natural Gas or LP)
Kerosene
0.301 gal/hr - 40,000 BTU/Hr (high)
0.203 gal/hr - 27,000 BTU/Hr (medium)
0.113 gal/hr - 15,000 BTU/Hr (low)
• Pros: Inexpensive to purchase and maintain. Very efficient (85-87%),
• Cons: Must store fuel, Kerosene has a strong odor, Kerosene is expensive ($5.89/gal locally at Jardines)
-Cheaper and more easily stored
- Four 55 gal drums will last one winter
-Store off concrete
-Diesel fuel additive extends storage life 2-5 years (like Sta-bil)
• Natural Gas/LP UNVENTED (Portable) – Low to High CO Emission – 5th Choice
(NOTE: All un-vented open-flame or closed flame still burn oxygen, and proper air flow must be allowed for. Consult manufacturer recommendations.)
• Propane Heaters Portable - Convection ``Reddy Heater - Hot Spot`` 15/20/25,000 Btu
• Convection heat creates a clean-burning, odor-free warmth on a 20-lb. propane cylinder. 3-heat settings.
• Heats up to 600 sq.ft. Pilotless burner.
• System needs no electricity. Piezo matchless ignition.
• Good for workshops, job sites, drywalling, patios and recreational activities.
• Reddy Heater 30,000 BTU LP Heater.
• Heats Up To 5,600 CUFT
• Runs Up To 14 Hours On A 20 LB LP Cylinder
• Electricity Required for Motor, Quiet Operation
• Output 1800 – 9000 btu depending on the size purchased
• LP Fuel Consumption – 1/8 lb – 1/3 lb per hr depending on size & setting
• Heated Area – 110 – 290 sqft
• $300 - $425
Portable LP Heaters from Northstar Flameless
• 4,000 BTU - low, 18,000 BTU- high
• LP Fuel Consumption - 400 sqft, 20lb tank on low 220hrs
• Automatic low oxygen stuff-off system ODS
• Tip-over safety switch
• Connects 1 or 2 disposable propane cylinders or to a 20 lb
• Battery operated fan included w/ electrical plug option
• CSA certified
• $75 - $120
Mr Heater “Buddy” & “Big Buddy”
• 8,500 - 30,000 BTU-
• No electricity required
• Modulating hydraulic thermostat
• $250 - $350
“Blue Flame” Type NG or LP
Original Series Tank-top Heaters
• Efficient – Heats radiantly, directly. No loss of heat to air
• LP Fuel Consumption - varying
• No Electricity required
• Convenient – Fully assembled, ready for use.
• Connects to 20lb Cylinder or smaller ones to 2lb
• Quiet – No noisy, annoying blowers
• Not Indoor Rated
Mr Heater(s)
• Natural gas or LP units can be used for short emergencies or temporary heating. However, they emit monoxide and water which can raise the indoor pollution levels too high.
• Only use in well-ventilated rooms with a window cracked open.
• They use oxygen; only use units with a low-oxygen level shut-off.
• Remember that propane can collect in low places, ignite and explode.
• Pros: Lights easily, relatively inexpensive fuel, fair performance in colder temps, propane works well down to 0°F, readily available, does not harm soil or water, puts out good heat
• Cons: Ignition sources can cause explosions (i.e., water heaters & electrical sources), may need
permit to store large quantities, Propane is heavier than air & can collect in low places (i.e.
basements, pits, floors) and can ignite, steel propane cylinders are heavy. A vented heater is
preferred and recommended.
Kerosene – UNVENTED – 6th Choice
• Unvented kerosene heaters, with attached fuel tanks, can be used for emergency or
temporary heating. However, all the combustion products, including carbon monoxide (a poisonous gas), nitrogen dioxide (which may cause throat and lung irritation), sulfur dioxide (which can impair breathing) and water, enter the living area. To be sure that these products do not raise pollution levels to unacceptable levels, use unvented kerosene heaters only in well-ventilated rooms.
• Also, all units must have a low-oxygen level shutoff. Follow the manufacturer’s
instructions.
• The heater must be used with the proper fuel and should only be fueled outside the
house after the heater has cooled.
• Because windows must be opened when unvented kerosene heaters are used, these
heaters can be expensive to operate.
21ST CENTURY Model OR77/78
For guidelines on choosing a portable Kerosene Heater and operations of see:
http://www.cojoweb.com/emerg-roomheating.html
• Logan City codes allows the use of “UL” listed portable heaters, but with a maximum 2 gals capacity in non-occupied living spaces.
• Pros: Relatively inexpensive for heater, abt. $120, can cook on top of them
• Cons: Kerosene has a strong odor and is fairly expensive ($5.89/gal locally at Jardines), Refill only outdoors. A vented heater is preferred and recommended. Must store fuel.
Fuels – Types, Storage and Safety
NOTE: Logan City codes prohibit the storage of flammable liquids in homes, basements, and/or garages.
Remember to put a fuel additive to any stored fuel. Pri-G for gasoline, and Pri-D for diesel or kerosene, or Sea-Foam.
Coal
• Burn outdoors only or in approved vented fire box.
• Fuel: Coal produced carbon monoxide - deadly fumes
• Can heat bricks and rocks which hold and radiate heat for some time
• Coal is the least expensive fuel per BTU that the average family can store.
• No City restrictions on storage amount, just store away from home.
With the proper protection your wood stove can burn coal. It should be brick lined, with a
metal grate that keeps the coal off the floor for proper burning. Start fire using wood, then add coal. 4-5 tons needed for the whole year.
• Pros: Stores well in a dark, dry place, can store in metal 55 gal drums, relatively cheap. No limit on storage size
• Cons: Hard to find, dirty and sooty, store away from circulating air, light & moisture, emits toxic fumes; use outdoors
Charcoal
• Burn outdoors only
• Charcoal Grills
• Using a Volcano Stove or Pyromid Stove (abt $120) improves efficiency of the coal heat. (IE use less coal).
• Fuel: Charcoal Briquettes or homemade charcoal, produced carbon monoxide - deadly fumes
• Can heat bricks and rocks which hold and radiate heat for some time
• No City restrictions on storage amount, just store away from home.
• Charcoal is the least expensive fuel per BTU that the average family can store. Remember that it must always be used out of doors because of the vast amounts of poisonous carbon monoxide it
produces. Charcoal will store for extended period of time if it is stored in air tight containers. It
readily absorbs moisture from the surrounding air so do not store it in the paper bags it comes in
for more than a few months or it may be difficult to light. Transfer it to airtight metal or plastic
containers and it will keep almost forever.
• Fifty or sixty dollars worth of charcoal will provide all the cooking fuel a family will need for an
entire year if used sparingly. The best time to buy briquettes inexpensively is at the end of the
summer. Broken or torn bags of briquettes are usually sold at a big discount. You will also want to store a small amount of charcoal lighter fluid (or kerosene). Newspapers will also provide an
excellent ignition source for charcoal when used in a funnel type of lighting device.
• To light charcoal using newspapers, use two or three sheets, crumpled up, and a #10 tin can. Cut both ends out of the can. Punch holes every two inches around the lower edge of the can with a punch-type can opener (for opening juice cans). Set the can down so the punches holes are on the bottom. Place the crumpled newspaper in the bottom of the can and place the charcoal briquettes on top of the newspaper. Lift the can slightly and light the newspaper. Prop a small rock under the bottom edge of the can to create a a good draft. The briquettes will be ready to use in about 20-30 minutes. When the coals are ready remove the chimney and place them in your cooker. Never place burning charcoal directly on concrete or cement because the heat will crack it. A wheelbarrow or old metal garbage can lid makes an excellent container for this type of fire.
• One of the nice things about charcoal is that you can regulate the heat you will receive from them. Each briquette will produce about 40 degrees of heat. If you are baking bread, for example, and need 400 degrees of heat for your oven, simply use ten briquettes.
• To conserve heat and thereby get the maximum heat value from your charcoal you must learn to funnel the heat where you want it rather than letting it dissipate into the air around you. One
excellent way to do this is to cook inside a cardboard oven. Take a cardboard box, about the size of an orange crate, and cover it with aluminum foil inside and out. Be sure that the shiny side is visible so that maximum reflectivity is achieved. Turn the box on its side so that the opening is no longer on the top but is on the side. Place some small bricks or other noncombustible material inside upon which you can rest a cookie sheet about two or three inches above the bottom of the box. Place ten burning charcoal briquettes between the bricks (if you need 400 degrees), place the support for your cooking vessels, and then place your bread pans or whatever else you are using on top of the cookie sheet. Prop a foil-covered cardboard lid over the open side, leaving a large crack for air to get in (charcoal needs a lot of air to burn) and bake your bread, cake, cookies, etc. just like you would in your regular oven. Your results will amaze you. (See handout Box Oven for a more longterm homemade charcoal oven.)
• To make your own charcoal, select twigs, limbs, and branches of fruit, nut and other hardwood
trees; black walnuts and peach or apricot pits may also be used. Cut wood into desired size, place
in a large can which has a few holes punched in it, put a lid on the can and place the can in a hot
fire. When the flames from the holes in the can turn yellow-red, remove the can from the fire and allow it to cool. Store the briquettes in a moisture-proof container. Burn charcoal only in a well-ventilated area.
• Pros: Fuel can be homemade, easy to locate, cheap, indefinite shelf life, non-volatile, Heat is
predictable. Each briquette produces about 25°F of heat, so 14 briquettes x 25 = 350°F. 25#s = 2 meals/day for 2 weeks for 14 people. 200-400 lbs = 1 year for family of 6+
• Cons: Only outside, produces deadly carbon monoxide, absorbs moisture readily so store in airtight container like metal garbage can with tight fitting lid, requires lighter fluid to ignite or funnel can.
Propane
• Burn outdoors, indoors only with window slightly open unless vented
• Propane stove (free standing, vented)
• Use with small Heaters, Stoves, and Lanterns
• Unvented propane heaters/stoves can be used for short emergencies or temporary heating.
However, they emit carbon monoxide and water which can raise the indoor pollution levels too high. Only use in well-ventilated tent with a window cracked open.
• They use oxygen; only use units with a low-oxygen level shut-off.
• City restricts storage to 25 gals or 100 lbs, stored outside & away from home or garage.
• Pros: Lights easily, relatively inexpensive fuel, fair performance in colder temps, propane works well down to 0°F, readily available, does not harm soil or water, puts out good heat, can cook on some stoves, stores indefinitely
• Cons: Ignition sources can cause explosions (i.e., water heaters & electrical sources), may need
permit to store large quantities, propane is heavier than air & can collect in low places (i.e.
basements, pits, floors) and can ignite/explode, steel propane cylinders are heavy, large cylinders are difficult to move. Need a large about for long term heating (1000lb + for a winter)
Butane
• Burn indoors or outdoors
• Use with small Heaters, Stoves and Lanterns
• Stoves: Porta-Chef stove about $10-20
• City restrictions storage to 100 gals total w/ other fuels, stored outside & away from home or garage.
• Pros: Can use indoors (emits CO and NO2) or out, convenient, clean burning, easy lighting, no pumping or priming, burns hot immediately, adjusts to simmer easily, easy refill – snap on new canister, works well at high altitudes, some stoves are very small and portable
• Cons: More expensive fuel, performance decreases in temps below 32° F, blended
butane/propane and isobutene fuels work better in cold temps. Emits NO2
White Gas
• Burn outdoors only
• Gas Grills and stoves
• Do not use in a tent. Carbon Monoxide is known as a “silent killer.” It is an invisible, odorless,
tasteless gas and is highly poisonous.
• Can heat bricks and rocks on the grill to take into the tent; wrap them up in a towel; they hold heat for some time.
• Use with Stoves and Lanterns
• Fuel: White gas is not gasoline or kerosene. White Gas - Coleman Fuel, Shellite, Mobilite, Pegasol, etc.
• When used with a Coleman stove, this is another excellent and convenient fuel for cooking. It is not as portable nor as lightweight as Sterno, but produces a much greater BTU value. Like Sterno, Coleman fuel has a tendency to evaporate even when the container is tightly sealed so it is not a good fuel for long-term storage. Unlike Sterno, however, it is highly volatile; it will explode under the right conditions and should therefore never be stored in the home or tent. Because of its highly flammable nature great care should always be exercised when lighting stoves and lanterns that use Coleman fuel. Many serious burns have been caused by carelessness with this product. Always store Coleman fuel in the garage or shed, out of doors.
• City restricts storage to 25 gals (in combination with gasoline, IE 25 total gals of white gas and
gasoline), stored outside & away from home or garage.
• Pros: Easy to find, clean burning, easy to light, spilled fuel evaporates quickly, produces a lot of heat.
• Cons: Expensive, volatile, spilled fuel can ignite quickly, priming required, produces carbon monoxide, store fuel outside, can evaporate like Sterno, highly flammable so use care
Diesel
• Burn outdoors only
• City restricts storage to 60 gals (in combination with Kerosene and oil lamp, 60 gals total), stored outside & away from home or garage.
• Pros: Easy to find, inexpensive, low volatility, burns well in some stoves, treated diesel can be
stored up to 10 years without degrading.
• Cons: Emits toxic fumes, clogs some stoves, gels in cold weather, protect from microbial growth
and water condensing in fuel.
Diethylene Glycol & Isoparaffin
• Can burn indoors and outdoors
• Fuel: Eco-Fuel, Heat it, Camp Heat, Dual Heat, Magic Heat
• Burn time: 8 hrs at 200° F, 4 hrs at 450° F
• Unlimited shelf life, never evaporates, even left open, non-flammable outside its container, no
toxic fumes, clear odorless liquid, even flame.
• City restricts storage to 55 gals total with other fuels, stored outside & away from home or garage.
• Pros: Works great for small cooking or heating needs. Safe, No flash backs when lighting, burns
constituent temperature, smokeless.
• Cons: 24 cans cost about $70, 24 cans = 192 hrs at moderate cooking temp or 96 hrs at high temp, harder to find.
Kerosene
• Burn outdoors or indoors with window opened
• Un-vented kerosene heaters, with attached fuel tanks, can be used for emergency or temporary heating. However, all the combustion products, including carbon monoxide and water, enter the living area. To be sure that these products do not raise pollution levels to unacceptable levels, use un-vented kerosene heaters only in well-ventilated rooms with a window cracked open.
• Also, all units must have a low-oxygen level shutoff. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
• The heater must be used with the proper fuel and should only be fueled outside after the heater has cooled.
• Stoves: Alpaca type kerosene cook stove – 8,500 BTUs, holds .9 gallons, lasts 16 hrs, abt $90,
replacement wicks abt $8. Kerosene cook stoves with 1, 2, & 3 burners, abt. $100
• Fuel brands: Liquid range oil, No. 1 Paraffin, Kero, Jet-A
• City restricts storage to 60 gals (in combination with diesel and oil lamp, 60 gals total), stored outside & away from home or garage.
• Pros: Kerosene fuel is one of the safest and most economical fuels. But use more because window has to be cracked open, stoves abt. $120, can cook on top of them, fuel easy to find worldwide, burns easily, high heat output, low volatility, can be used indoors,
• Cons: A vented heater is preferred and recommended, burns dirty, has order when igniting,
priming required, can gum up stove parts, uses oxygen in a room - crack a window
Manure
• Burn indoors or outdoors
• Cow or buffalo chips
• Pros: Inexpensive if you are on a farm, burns well
• Cons: Needs to dry before using, need large on-going quantity and easy to reach storage, possible unpleasant odor
Alternative Power Sources
Solar Power
Solar panels are becoming more cost effective every year and many States and Cities have rebates for solar system installations (along with a Federal Tax rebate). However, here in the northwest, even with these incentives the payback period is still many years out. Most solar systems are installed for the security and “peace of mind” for the contribution towards a greener planet than for the cost benefits. Solar power is generated in DC volts and must be “inverted” to AC voltage for household use. This is accomplished by an inverter. Backup batteries can be installed with a solar system for use after daylight hours. Solar installations require a building permit before construction.
• Pros: Good long-term choice, good in sunny locations, no odor, no mess, quiet, life span of 20 years.
• Cons: Very expensive to set up (abt $15,000+ per home), full power from the sun occurs only during a few hours in the day, batteries last only a few years, not suitable for apartments.
Wind Turbines
Wind turbines are also becoming more cost effective every year. However, there are fewer rebate options with small wind projects. Consult with your local City and State representatives for details. Wind turbines generate power in DC volts and must be “inverted” to AC voltage for household use. This is accomplished by an inverter. Wind turbine installations require a building permit before construction.
• Pros: Good long-term choice in windy locations, no odor, no mess, quiet
• Cons: Expensive to set up (abt $10K for a large unit, $3000 for a small unit), needs wind, requires way to store and convert power (IE battery backup system), not suitable in city or for apartments.
Power Inverters/Battery
• Inverter are devices that convert DC (IE think batteries) voltage to AC voltage for use on typical appliances. A power inverter can be a lifesaver if you need to heat up formula for your baby or power up an incubator for chicks, or just to have electricity during an electric outage. It enables you to use a common electrical device or appliance in your car or any place that has access to a 12 volt battery. Power inverters can be purchased in a computer store, camping/recreation vehicle stores, in marine supply stores, Walmart, Samsclub, Costco or online. They cost from $25, for a simple 100 watt unit, up to several hundred dollars for large units that will enable you to use electric appliances and provide power for up to 24 hours (depending on your battery size or if the car is running).
• The 100-watt unit allows you to heat several normal-sized heating pads. Average heating pads use 25 watts. Wrap these heating pads up in towels and place them in a bed, the bottom of a pet
carrier or incubator, etc.
• Accessories: To use this item in your home, you can buy an accessory for the power inverter - a detachable set of miniature jumper cables that cost about $5 to $10. This cable allows you to
bypass plugging the power inverter into your car's cigarette lighter and enables you to hook up
directly to any 12 volt battery. An extra, fully charged car battery is inexpensive and will work for 6 to 12 hours, depending on what you plug into the inverter and how much electricity that device uses. You can purchase small rechargeable electric batteries that will last for 6 hours each. They are compact, about one third the size of a car battery, and really add to the portability of your power inverter. They last for years and are well worth the extra cost. Expect to pay between $80 to $100 dollars for one of them.
• Multiple Batteries: If you anticipate lengthy outages, multiple batteries are recommended to
extend the length of time that you can provide power.
• Larger Units: If you have larger power requirements, a 400 watt power inverter would be
advisable. They cost hundreds of dollars less than a gasoline generator but handle the same
electrical capacity.
• Suggestions: Powerpack by Xantrex – 600 watt AC inverter (internal) surge/ 400 Watt sustained, with 28 amp/hr battery, 3 AC sockets 1 DC socket, recharged by AC or DC so can recharge from a solar panel, jumper cables, AM/FM clock radio, alarm clock, built-in light; MSRP $229, Amazon $140, use super saver shipping.
• Remember you get what you pay for, don’t buy a cheap one.
• Pros: Inexpensive backup power for the short term, varying sizes, low cost
• Cons: limited to your power source, stand alone battery will last a few hours depending on the use.
HEATING/COOKING – For Outside (some units can be used in a Tent)
Alcohol Stoves
• Burn indoors or out
• Suggested: Trangia based stoves (screw on cap allows you to save unburned fuel) - Clikstand, Westwind (cheaper)
• Fuel: Denatured alcohol – Methylated, Spirits, Metho, Ethynol, Alcohol Stove Fuel
• Pros: Can burn indoors or out; zero percent failure rate, low volatility, burns almost silently
• Cons: Open flame, cooking takes longer, requires more fuel, lower heat output
Trangia ClickStand Trangia Westwind Stove
Canned Heat (alcohol gel) Stoves
• Burn indoors or out
• Sterno Fuel, a jellied petroleum product, is an excellent source of fuel for inclusion in your back pack as part of your 72 hour kit. Sterno is very light weight and easily ignited with a match or a spark from flint and steel but is not explosive. It is also safe for use indoors.
• Pros: A Sterno Stove can be purchased at any sporting goods store and will retail between $3 and $8, depending upon the model you choose. They fold up into a very small, compact unit ideal for carrying in a pack. The fuel is readily available at all sporting goods stores and many drug stores. One can of Sterno fuel, about the diameter of a can of tuna fish and twice as
Diethylene Gycol Fueled Stove high, will allow you to cook six meals if used frugally. Chafing dishes and fondue pots can also be used with Sterno.
• Cons: Open flame. Sterno is not without some problems. It will evaporate very easily, even when the lid is securely fastened. If you use Sterno in your 72 hour kit, you should check it every six to eight months to insure that it has not evaporated beyond the point of usage. Because of this problem it is not a good fuel for long-term storage. It is a very expensive fuel to use compared to others fuel available, but is extremely convenient and portable.
Wood Tent Stoves, VENTED
• Burn indoors or outdoors
• Choose stove carefully, some are bad; consider the wood pellet-burning small stove that doesn’t require an electric auger, just throw several pellet bags into your truck and you don’t have to chop wood in cold weather or middle of the night
• Pros: Well designed stoves produce good heat, fuel is readily available in some areas, you can chop & haul your own, smells nice while burning, no toxic fumes, can be burned indoors and outdoors
• Cons: Stoves range from cheap to expensive, some stoves can be tricky to operate – practice
beforehand so you won’t burn your tent down, wood is scarce in some areas, wood burning in
non-EPA approved stoves is banned on “no burn days,” wood fuel requires ample storage space,
should be protected from moisture, requires a year’s seasoning before use, “Know Your Wood” or you will be stuck with poor burning species.
Wood Fires
• Burn outdoors
• Pros: Fuel is readily available in some areas, you can chop & haul your own, smells nice while
burning, no toxic fumes, can cook over open fire with proper equipment
• Cons: Open flame, some Teepees can use open fires, poor heat in cold weather, requires chopping and hauling, wood is scarce in some areas, wood fuel requires ample storage space, wood should be protected from moisture, requires a year’s seasoning before burns really well, “Know Your Wood” or you will be stuck with poor burning species, cannot burn open flames in dry/drought conditions, must be tended, have to wait for coals to cook
Appendix
Sources:
Dare to Prepare, Holly Drennan Deyo, 2nd Edition, Deyo Enterprises LLC, standeyo.com, pp. 284-289.
Disaster Recovery: Options for emergency home heating, Oct., 1993, University Extension, Iowa State University
Clikstand S-1, Art Simon, 2006 update, www.art.simon.tripod.com/Stoves/
What is carbon monoxide?
Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless and poisonous gas that can build up in your blood cells as you breathe. It may reach toxic levels in minutes or over several hours. Early symptoms of poisoning include dizziness, headache and/or nausea. People who are sleeping are likely to be more susceptible to carbon monoxide poisoning since they will not recognize the symptoms. Just getting out in the open air doesn’t eliminate carbon monoxide from your body. It takes 10 to 24 hours, so suffocation may even occur after you have left areas with high levels of carbon monoxide.
Why Are We Here Today?
Inspired Counsel from Church Leaders:
“Concerning clothing, we should anticipate future needs, such as extra work clothes and clothes that would supply warmth during winter months when there may be shortages or lack of heating fuel Wood, coal, gas, oil, kerosene, and even candles are among those items which could be reserved as fuel for warmth, cooking, and light or power. Some may be used for all of these purposes and certain ones would have to be stored and handled cautiously”. Elder Benson “Prepare Ye” Ensign Jan 1974
“We do not know when the calamities and troubles of the last days will fall upon any of us as
individuals or upon bodies of the Saints. The Lord deliberately withholds from us the day and hour of his coming and of the tribulations which shall precede it—all as part of the testing and probationary experiences of mortality. He simply tells us to watch and be ready.” Elder McConkie “Stand Independent above All Other Creatures” May 1979
“I believe it is time, and perhaps with some urgency, to review the counsel we have received in dealing with our personal and family preparedness. We want to be found with oil in our lamps sufficient to endure to the end.” “I believe the time to disregard this counsel is over. With events in the world today, it must be considered with all seriousness.” Elder Perry “If Ye Are Prepared Ye Shall Not Fear” Ensign, Nov 1995
“…there were only four things that a man really needed: food, clothing, shelter, and fuel.” Elder Perry “Let Him Do It with Simplicity” Ensign Nov 2008
“There is a portent of stormy weather ahead to which we had better give heed.” Pres Hinckley “To the Boys and to the Men” Ensign Nov 1998
Everyday Examples:
* Every City Prepares for an Emergency – Recommendation from Logan City
Examples:
Earthquakes – Utah is Overdue for a large Earthquake - 5.5 to 8+ on Richter scale
http://earthquake.usgs.gov/eqcenter/recenteqsww/ 420 eq’s 1900-1999; 362 EQ’s 2000-20009 to-date (4.0+)
Ice Storms - 870,000 homes and businesses lost power from Oklahoma to West Virginia – 1/28/09
Wind Storms - Provo City Micro Burst 1995
Katrina Hurricane - 2005
Flooding – Red River 3/28/09
* FERC Commissioner said last summer the power grid was very close to overload. In all probability the electric power grid will fail for a significant length of time within our lives. If we are prepared we will be able to “weather the storm”. There are many aspects to being prepared: Water, Sanitation, Food, Shelter, etc. We will focus on two: Clothing and Heat.
When Utilities Go Down (WUGD)
CLOTHING
An individual can “Weather the Storm” better in cold conditions if they are warm. There are two
basic concepts used in clothing to keep warm: Layering and Foam. Most important principle to
remember: NO COTTON (it keeps the moisture close to your skin and allows body heat to escape).
Layering – Principles: wear several layers of specific types of clothes (add more, or less layers
depending on the conditions, and temperature).
• Base layer - You want a tight fit to skin for wicking the moisture away from the skin. For LDS
Garments, the Church makes a synthetic thermal garment (don’t use any garments with cotton content for this purpose! Use thin, light weight 100% synthetic polyester.). Long johns and tops. Polypropylene is best, but any synthetic material is better than cotton. Look for end of the season sales: Sam’s Club, Shopko, JC Penney. Brand names: CuddlDuds or Chill Chasers. Comes in warm and warmer with inside fleece.
Pros: Inexpensive, about. $5-16 ea piece; easy to pull clothes over as they are slick on outside,
cheap at season-end close outs, two kinds – warm and warmer.
Cons: Not as many choices, have to do the leg work to find the good buys and needed sizes;
however, more stores are carrying these.
• 2nd Layer - Insulating – Snug but more lose fitting. Fabric can be Synthetic polypropylene, polyester & open cell foam; natural wool, silk, fleece, etc. These fabrics stay warm even when wetand dry quickly. Just verify (for cold weather) no cotton content. (100% cotton is great in extremely hot and humid weather. It holds moisture and acts as a natural air conditioner.) Add more insulating layers for conditions and temperature.
• 3rd Layer - Wind/Water Protection – What type is dependant on what temperature you will be subject to. For extreme temperatures (below 28 deg F) Look for synthetic non-sealed (non-waterproof) but tightly woven, wind resistant fabric shell. Remember, you are just trying to keep the wind (heat sucking) off and at these lower temperatures, there is no water (rain, snow melt) to get wet from. For temperatures (above 28 deg F) look for breathable waterproof fabrics (Gore-Tex, etc). Any water proofing will slow down the evaporation process, so only use when you have to and if the outer layer is waterproof and non-breathable, your body moisture will be trapped by the waterproof barrier. Buy water proofing spray cans for when the fabric begins to leak.
US Military Cold Weather Clothing System - Layering
• Available at Smith and Edwards or other Army surplus stores.
• Base layer - Looks like a sweat suit (top and bottom), polypropylene
• 2nd layer (quilted vest or jacket and pants)
• 3rd layer (wind/water breaker jacket or parka and pants
• Booties (to sleep in)
• Caps (can also sleep in to keep body heat in)
• Balaclava - Full head covers with eye opening – fleece
• Gloves and glove liners
• Boots and socks, sock liners
• Pros: Inexpensive and very warm: About $7-10 each piece, coats are more
• Cons: Only come in long, have to hem legs, not attractive
National Brands of Outdoor Cold Weather Layering
• Sold in sporting goods/outdoor stores
• Example: Armour and Cabela’s hunting systems; synthetic, wool, silk
• Pros: Scientifically designed layers; systems for hot, regular, cold and extreme cold; some are
attractive; many choices.
• Cons: Expensive, about $30-40 ea piece, cheaper when on sale, many sales clerks cannot give you the needed info to make decisions
Box Store Brands:
• 2nd layer: Synthetic fleece vests and jackets (can get on close-out sales for about $5 at Old Navy, etc.)
Pros: Inexpensive, esp. on sale, more affordable for families, easy to find
Cons: Takes your time to find sizes and prices, low to intermediate quality and fabrics
• 3rd layer: Wind resistant, water resistant, synthetic coats and pants. Be careful to not purchase a coated fabric because your body moisture cannot escape
Pros: Can find good buys, great for large families, regular winter coats and outdoor pants can be
chosen with this system in mind.
Cons: Lower quality fabrics
Foam Clothing – Principles: Open-cell foam has a nature ability to pull moisture away from the
body and allow it to evaporate.
Foam clothing is the brainchild of Jim Phillips. He has a web site where foam clothing can be purchased or you can make you own. The basic technology is as follows:
Highest Performance Cold
Weather Clothing on Earth!
Anyone can be truly warm and comfortable at temperatures from above freezing to well below
Zero with ease. It's not magic, it's science. The technology and equipment have been in
development for over 30 years. We call it "P.A.L.S." (The Phillips Arctic Living System).
Taken from Jim Phillips Web Site: http://www.jimsway.com
Jim Phillips Thermal Johns™ (TJ's™)
• People can live in smart clothing without heat, even outdoors
• Good for inside or evacuation, when cannot take lots of fuel with you
• Approx. costs:
• Pros: Made to fit, someone else does all the work, best for extreme cold protection, but works in all conditions.
• Cons: Expensive
Home-made Foam Clothing
• Purchase the fabric (contact Jim Phillips or Joan Elder, joan_elder @comcast.net)
• Purchase a sheet of open-cell foam. (contact Jim Phillips or Joan Elder)
• Obtain a pattern, cut and sew.
• You can also purchase synthetic wind breaker or jogging suits on sale and insert the open cell foam into it. Use the suit for the pattern. Don’t use a cotton jogging suit, and fabric must be uncoaed – no rubber or plasticized coating
• Pros: Less expensive but end product can be excellent
• Cons: You have to find materials, time and make the clothing
HEATING - For a House
Water Pipe Freezing
During long term power outage in cold conditions, you must be careful to protect your home from freezing. Most homes will maintain adequate heat for several hours that will keep pipes from freezing (depending on insulation, direct sunlight on the home, outside temperature, etc). However, if the power outage is expected to last several days or a week or more, and you do not have a alternate heat source, or in the case of an evacuation, you must take steps to protect the water piping in the home from freezing. Frozen pipes will often break, and after thawing will cause a lot of damage. Moving water will not freeze as easily, so the easiest short term solution is to open the faucets to allow a slow drip. However, this solution will only protect the lines the water is flowing in (IE opening a bathroom faucet will not protect the water line going to the toilet or shower). The most reliable solution is to drain all the pipes. Before proceeding, ensure you have enough water for your future needs. Locate your main water valve into the home, and close. Open the drain valve on the main line, (sometimes no water will drain until a faucet is opened. Locate the highest faucet in the home and open to the cold water side). This will drain the cold water from the lines. Locate your water heater, and open the drain valve. Turn the opened faucet now to the hot side. Don’t forget your toilet bowls and tanks, clothes washers, dish washers, water and sump pumps (If electricity runs your water pump, a power outage could restrict your water use. Save as much water as possible in covered containers where it will not freeze.), furnace boilers (if you have one, this is not common), shower and sink traps, etc.
If staying in your home with an alternate heat source is an option, but only part of the home will be heated, you may want to install additional valves and drains to isolate the home or use the drip system solution. Each home is unique, so check your options carefully and make your plan now.
Home Protection/Preparation to Prevent Pipe Freezing
• Seal cracks around doors and windows with sealing tape, towels and blankets. Limit area to be heated.
• Select a space on the "warm" side of the house, away from prevailing cold winds. It's best to avoid rooms with large windows or un-insulated walls. Interior rooms, such as inside bathrooms or closets, probably have the lowest heat loss.
• Your basement may be another great option in cold weather because of the heat gain from the
earth.
• Isolate the room from the rest of the house by keeping doors closed. Hanging bedding, heavy
drapes, blankets or towels over entryways, windows, hallways, etc. or erecting temporary partitions of cardboard or plywood.
• If your windows are broken in an earthquake, put heavy visquine plastic, cardboard, or plywood sheets over window frame to seal out cold. Use heavy duty duct tape. Put a layer of clear plastic on the inside and one on the outside of the window frame to make a dead air space between the two layers. Plastic will allow light to come in during the day.
• Do the same with other damaged walls in the house.
Secondary Heat Sources
Cost Comparisons of Fuel Types
The Energy Information Administration's Heating Fuel Comparison Calculator - estimates the
costs to produce 1 million Btu:
$14.39 Wood Pellets
$15.83 Wood Solid.
$5.35 Coal
$19.62 Natural Gas
$22.59 Heating Oil
$27.77 Propane
$30.82 Electric furnaces, baseboards, and space heaters.
Generators – 1st Choice
A standby electric generator is a good investment. It can assure electricity to run the natural gas/liquid propane furnace’s fan and controls. There are several types, sizes and safety rules to follow. Please refer to the class on generators for more information.
• Never run generators indoors or even in the garage; they produce large
amounts of toxic carbon monoxide
• Pros: Small space required, allows running multiple household appliances (depending on unit’s size and loads), easy to use and maintain, very reliable.
• Cons: Requires fuel storage depending on type of generator (gas, propane, diesel), produces
carbon monoxide, noisy although muffler can help, can be expensive depending on size/type
Natural Gas/Propane - VENTED – 2nd Choice
• Gas stove (free standing, vented)
• Gas fireplaces with glass doors
• Gas fireplace insert
• These vented units are excellent and can be used for long-term space heating all winter
• Get a stove than can be later fitted to burn propane in case natural gas goes down (during a long-term electric outage, natural gas pumps will be unable to keep the pressure high enough to use)
• Fuel: Natural gas, Liquid Propane (LP) tanks (tanks should be outside house)
• Pros: Lights easily, relatively inexpensive fuel, fair performance in colder temps, propane works well down to 0°F, readily available, does not harm soil or water, puts out good heat, can cook on some stoves, stores indefinitely.
• Cons: Ignition sources can cause explosions (i.e., water heaters & electrical sources), may need
permit to store large quantities, propane is heavier than air & can collect in low places (i.e.
basements, pits, floors) and can ignite/explode, steel propane cylinders are heavy, large cylinders are difficult to move. 500 gals last approx 1-2 months depending on temp, use, etc.
Wood, VENTED – 2nd Choice
• Wood stove (free standing, vented) – gives great heat
• Wood fireplace insert – some brands radiate good heat
• Wood fireplace with glass doors – good only for temporary heat
• Wood fireplace with no doors – very poor heat, don’t count on it
• Wood furnace in outdoor building – great heat and safer for your house as the
combustion is outside.
• Wood Pellet Stoves – very efficient but requires electricity
• Most Stoves can be converted to burn coal as well. Coal burns hotter, longer per lb.
• Can heat bricks and rocks on some wood stoves; bricks hold heat for some time and radiate it back out, cover with towels and take into other rooms
• Can cook on some wood burning stoves
• Some Good brands (according to Consumer Reports):
Fireview Soapstone Wood Stove ($2500)
Lopi Liberty Wood Stove ($1800)
Napoleon Small Pedestal Wood Stove Package ($1200-$1700)
Jotul F 118 CB Black Bear ($1500)
For more information on manufacturer ratings see: http://hearth.com/ratings/search.php
For more information on wood stoves see: http://www.woodheat.org/technology/woodstoves.htm
• Pros: Fuel is readily available in some areas, you can chop & haul your own, smells nice while
burning, no toxic fumes, can be burned indoors and outdoors
• Cons: Stoves can be more expensive, wood is scarce in some areas, wood burning in non-EPA
approved stoves is banned on “no burn days,” wood fuel requires ample storage space, should be
protected from moisture, requires a year’s seasoning before use, “Know Your Wood” or you will
be stuck with poor burning species.
• Seasoned dry wood: Fire wood must have between 15 - 20% moisture to burn properly. To get that the wood must be cut and allowed to dry for at least a full summer. Wood must be properly stacked, off the ground to dry.
• Types of wood: What is the best tree species for firewood? While there is always room for debate, I would like to suggest that the best species in your area is the one that is most plentiful, easy to split and doesn't cover your hands and clothes with sticky sap. All wood, regardless of species, has about the same energy content per pound. The different species vary only in density. Traditionally, the favored trees in central North America were oak and maple because they are very dense and produce long-lasting coals. But these are valuable trees and in many areas are not plentiful enough to burn. No problem, just use softer woods like birch or poplar (aspen) or any other tree that is readily available. Keep in mind that people living in the coldest areas of North America have no hardwoods to burn and they get along just fine. Ultimately, it is more important to have wood that is cut and split to the right size and properly dried
than it is to get the hardest wood available.
• Stacking Wood: Lay a base for the stack. This can be two two-by-four or two-by-six boards or two long poles or branches. Lay them far enough apart to lay an average piece of firewood. Set the base facing eastwest so your stack will have more sunlight during the winter. Pick out some pieces shaped like halfmoons and quarter-moons. At each end of the pile, place a half-moon piece with the flat side up across the base. Place two quarter-moon pieces at right angles across the half-moon shape, with the angles sides facing down. You now have a solid base for your stack. Stack the firewood across your base, mixing sizes and types of wood as much as possible to provide optimum airflow. Continue stacking until the stack reaches the desired height (best below 4ft). It will also be easier to measure a cord of wood, which is 4 feet high by 4 feet wide by 8 feet high. Cover the stack with a plastic tarp, or build a shelter over the top to keep the wood dry.
Tips & Warnings - Never pile firewood directly on the ground and never stack firewood near your house. Both are invitations for hungry termites that can find their way into your house.
No City restriction on wood storage, just store away from home or garage.
- Rolled newspapers
- Fire Starters
Both are good sources for getting your fire started.
Natural Gas/LP UNVENTED – Low CO Emission - 3rd Choice
(NOTE: All un-vented open-flame or closed flame still burn oxygen, and proper air flow must be
allowed for. Consult manufacturer recommendations.)
• Unvented or Vent Free - natural gas or LP units like this one can be used indoors as they are clean burning. 99% heating efficient
• Vent free units are thermostatically controlled to automatically modulates the heat output and flame height from 16,000 to 30,000 and pilot, in order to maintain a consistent room
temperature.
• Porcelain reflective back creates a third set of "flames" thru screen
front.
• Heats up to 1,000 square feet
• Push button ignition for easy pilot lighting.
• Heater has a pilot with an Oxygen Depletion Sensor Shutoff System (ODS), which shuts off the heater if there is not enough fresh air.
• Requires no electricity to operate the stove.
• Features:
• Ceramic Infrared Burner - Heats like the Sun! 30,000 BTU for the NG
(Natural Gas) or 25,000 BTU for the LP (Liquid Propane)
• Fuel: LP Gas or NG Gas
• 99.9% Fuel Efficient
• Top Mounted Controls
• No Electricity Required
• Safe Watch (tm) Pilot / ODS System
Kozy World WM-KWN321 • Operates without electricity, providing heat during power outages.
(LP OR NG) • Safe, odorless and clean burning
• Variable Heat Control
• Large Heat Output
• Dimensions: 23.5(H) x 26.63(W) x 8.0(D)
• Heating area - approximately 1,000 square feet
• 5 (five) plaques
Comfort Glow RF30T
• Pros: Lights easily, relatively inexpensive fuel, fair performance in colder temps, propane works well down to 0°F, readily available, does not harm soil or water, puts out good heat
• Cons: Stoves can be more expensive. Ignition sources can cause explosions (i.e., water heaters & electrical sources), may need permit to store large quantities, Propane is heavier than air & can collect in low places (i.e. basements, pits, floors) and can ignite, steel propane cylinders are heavy. A vented heater is preferred and recommended.
• Natural gas or LP units emit carbon monoxide and water which can raise the indoor pollution levels too high. Proper ventilation must be provided.
Natural Gas, LP or Kerosene – VENTED – 4th Choice
• Stoves/heaters for the house can be used as emergency or as a space heater all winter
• Great heat for a room or two, 8- 40,000 BTUs for up to 2000 sq ft
• Gives off carbon monoxide which is vented out of the home
• External fuel tanks (outside) for LP & Kerosene. Can hold several weeks’ fuel supply
and can be filled outside Toyo Vented Kerosene Heater
Brands: Toyo (Kerosene), Rinnai (Natural Gas or LP)
Kerosene
0.301 gal/hr - 40,000 BTU/Hr (high)
0.203 gal/hr - 27,000 BTU/Hr (medium)
0.113 gal/hr - 15,000 BTU/Hr (low)
• Pros: Inexpensive to purchase and maintain. Very efficient (85-87%),
• Cons: Must store fuel, Kerosene has a strong odor, Kerosene is expensive ($5.89/gal locally at Jardines)
-Cheaper and more easily stored
- Four 55 gal drums will last one winter
-Store off concrete
-Diesel fuel additive extends storage life 2-5 years (like Sta-bil)
• Natural Gas/LP UNVENTED (Portable) – Low to High CO Emission – 5th Choice
(NOTE: All un-vented open-flame or closed flame still burn oxygen, and proper air flow must be allowed for. Consult manufacturer recommendations.)
• Propane Heaters Portable - Convection ``Reddy Heater - Hot Spot`` 15/20/25,000 Btu
• Convection heat creates a clean-burning, odor-free warmth on a 20-lb. propane cylinder. 3-heat settings.
• Heats up to 600 sq.ft. Pilotless burner.
• System needs no electricity. Piezo matchless ignition.
• Good for workshops, job sites, drywalling, patios and recreational activities.
• Reddy Heater 30,000 BTU LP Heater.
• Heats Up To 5,600 CUFT
• Runs Up To 14 Hours On A 20 LB LP Cylinder
• Electricity Required for Motor, Quiet Operation
• Output 1800 – 9000 btu depending on the size purchased
• LP Fuel Consumption – 1/8 lb – 1/3 lb per hr depending on size & setting
• Heated Area – 110 – 290 sqft
• $300 - $425
Portable LP Heaters from Northstar Flameless
• 4,000 BTU - low, 18,000 BTU- high
• LP Fuel Consumption - 400 sqft, 20lb tank on low 220hrs
• Automatic low oxygen stuff-off system ODS
• Tip-over safety switch
• Connects 1 or 2 disposable propane cylinders or to a 20 lb
• Battery operated fan included w/ electrical plug option
• CSA certified
• $75 - $120
Mr Heater “Buddy” & “Big Buddy”
• 8,500 - 30,000 BTU-
• No electricity required
• Modulating hydraulic thermostat
• $250 - $350
“Blue Flame” Type NG or LP
Original Series Tank-top Heaters
• Efficient – Heats radiantly, directly. No loss of heat to air
• LP Fuel Consumption - varying
• No Electricity required
• Convenient – Fully assembled, ready for use.
• Connects to 20lb Cylinder or smaller ones to 2lb
• Quiet – No noisy, annoying blowers
• Not Indoor Rated
Mr Heater(s)
• Natural gas or LP units can be used for short emergencies or temporary heating. However, they emit monoxide and water which can raise the indoor pollution levels too high.
• Only use in well-ventilated rooms with a window cracked open.
• They use oxygen; only use units with a low-oxygen level shut-off.
• Remember that propane can collect in low places, ignite and explode.
• Pros: Lights easily, relatively inexpensive fuel, fair performance in colder temps, propane works well down to 0°F, readily available, does not harm soil or water, puts out good heat
• Cons: Ignition sources can cause explosions (i.e., water heaters & electrical sources), may need
permit to store large quantities, Propane is heavier than air & can collect in low places (i.e.
basements, pits, floors) and can ignite, steel propane cylinders are heavy. A vented heater is
preferred and recommended.
Kerosene – UNVENTED – 6th Choice
• Unvented kerosene heaters, with attached fuel tanks, can be used for emergency or
temporary heating. However, all the combustion products, including carbon monoxide (a poisonous gas), nitrogen dioxide (which may cause throat and lung irritation), sulfur dioxide (which can impair breathing) and water, enter the living area. To be sure that these products do not raise pollution levels to unacceptable levels, use unvented kerosene heaters only in well-ventilated rooms.
• Also, all units must have a low-oxygen level shutoff. Follow the manufacturer’s
instructions.
• The heater must be used with the proper fuel and should only be fueled outside the
house after the heater has cooled.
• Because windows must be opened when unvented kerosene heaters are used, these
heaters can be expensive to operate.
21ST CENTURY Model OR77/78
For guidelines on choosing a portable Kerosene Heater and operations of see:
http://www.cojoweb.com/emerg-roomheating.html
• Logan City codes allows the use of “UL” listed portable heaters, but with a maximum 2 gals capacity in non-occupied living spaces.
• Pros: Relatively inexpensive for heater, abt. $120, can cook on top of them
• Cons: Kerosene has a strong odor and is fairly expensive ($5.89/gal locally at Jardines), Refill only outdoors. A vented heater is preferred and recommended. Must store fuel.
Fuels – Types, Storage and Safety
NOTE: Logan City codes prohibit the storage of flammable liquids in homes, basements, and/or garages.
Remember to put a fuel additive to any stored fuel. Pri-G for gasoline, and Pri-D for diesel or kerosene, or Sea-Foam.
Coal
• Burn outdoors only or in approved vented fire box.
• Fuel: Coal produced carbon monoxide - deadly fumes
• Can heat bricks and rocks which hold and radiate heat for some time
• Coal is the least expensive fuel per BTU that the average family can store.
• No City restrictions on storage amount, just store away from home.
With the proper protection your wood stove can burn coal. It should be brick lined, with a
metal grate that keeps the coal off the floor for proper burning. Start fire using wood, then add coal. 4-5 tons needed for the whole year.
• Pros: Stores well in a dark, dry place, can store in metal 55 gal drums, relatively cheap. No limit on storage size
• Cons: Hard to find, dirty and sooty, store away from circulating air, light & moisture, emits toxic fumes; use outdoors
Charcoal
• Burn outdoors only
• Charcoal Grills
• Using a Volcano Stove or Pyromid Stove (abt $120) improves efficiency of the coal heat. (IE use less coal).
• Fuel: Charcoal Briquettes or homemade charcoal, produced carbon monoxide - deadly fumes
• Can heat bricks and rocks which hold and radiate heat for some time
• No City restrictions on storage amount, just store away from home.
• Charcoal is the least expensive fuel per BTU that the average family can store. Remember that it must always be used out of doors because of the vast amounts of poisonous carbon monoxide it
produces. Charcoal will store for extended period of time if it is stored in air tight containers. It
readily absorbs moisture from the surrounding air so do not store it in the paper bags it comes in
for more than a few months or it may be difficult to light. Transfer it to airtight metal or plastic
containers and it will keep almost forever.
• Fifty or sixty dollars worth of charcoal will provide all the cooking fuel a family will need for an
entire year if used sparingly. The best time to buy briquettes inexpensively is at the end of the
summer. Broken or torn bags of briquettes are usually sold at a big discount. You will also want to store a small amount of charcoal lighter fluid (or kerosene). Newspapers will also provide an
excellent ignition source for charcoal when used in a funnel type of lighting device.
• To light charcoal using newspapers, use two or three sheets, crumpled up, and a #10 tin can. Cut both ends out of the can. Punch holes every two inches around the lower edge of the can with a punch-type can opener (for opening juice cans). Set the can down so the punches holes are on the bottom. Place the crumpled newspaper in the bottom of the can and place the charcoal briquettes on top of the newspaper. Lift the can slightly and light the newspaper. Prop a small rock under the bottom edge of the can to create a a good draft. The briquettes will be ready to use in about 20-30 minutes. When the coals are ready remove the chimney and place them in your cooker. Never place burning charcoal directly on concrete or cement because the heat will crack it. A wheelbarrow or old metal garbage can lid makes an excellent container for this type of fire.
• One of the nice things about charcoal is that you can regulate the heat you will receive from them. Each briquette will produce about 40 degrees of heat. If you are baking bread, for example, and need 400 degrees of heat for your oven, simply use ten briquettes.
• To conserve heat and thereby get the maximum heat value from your charcoal you must learn to funnel the heat where you want it rather than letting it dissipate into the air around you. One
excellent way to do this is to cook inside a cardboard oven. Take a cardboard box, about the size of an orange crate, and cover it with aluminum foil inside and out. Be sure that the shiny side is visible so that maximum reflectivity is achieved. Turn the box on its side so that the opening is no longer on the top but is on the side. Place some small bricks or other noncombustible material inside upon which you can rest a cookie sheet about two or three inches above the bottom of the box. Place ten burning charcoal briquettes between the bricks (if you need 400 degrees), place the support for your cooking vessels, and then place your bread pans or whatever else you are using on top of the cookie sheet. Prop a foil-covered cardboard lid over the open side, leaving a large crack for air to get in (charcoal needs a lot of air to burn) and bake your bread, cake, cookies, etc. just like you would in your regular oven. Your results will amaze you. (See handout Box Oven for a more longterm homemade charcoal oven.)
• To make your own charcoal, select twigs, limbs, and branches of fruit, nut and other hardwood
trees; black walnuts and peach or apricot pits may also be used. Cut wood into desired size, place
in a large can which has a few holes punched in it, put a lid on the can and place the can in a hot
fire. When the flames from the holes in the can turn yellow-red, remove the can from the fire and allow it to cool. Store the briquettes in a moisture-proof container. Burn charcoal only in a well-ventilated area.
• Pros: Fuel can be homemade, easy to locate, cheap, indefinite shelf life, non-volatile, Heat is
predictable. Each briquette produces about 25°F of heat, so 14 briquettes x 25 = 350°F. 25#s = 2 meals/day for 2 weeks for 14 people. 200-400 lbs = 1 year for family of 6+
• Cons: Only outside, produces deadly carbon monoxide, absorbs moisture readily so store in airtight container like metal garbage can with tight fitting lid, requires lighter fluid to ignite or funnel can.
Propane
• Burn outdoors, indoors only with window slightly open unless vented
• Propane stove (free standing, vented)
• Use with small Heaters, Stoves, and Lanterns
• Unvented propane heaters/stoves can be used for short emergencies or temporary heating.
However, they emit carbon monoxide and water which can raise the indoor pollution levels too high. Only use in well-ventilated tent with a window cracked open.
• They use oxygen; only use units with a low-oxygen level shut-off.
• City restricts storage to 25 gals or 100 lbs, stored outside & away from home or garage.
• Pros: Lights easily, relatively inexpensive fuel, fair performance in colder temps, propane works well down to 0°F, readily available, does not harm soil or water, puts out good heat, can cook on some stoves, stores indefinitely
• Cons: Ignition sources can cause explosions (i.e., water heaters & electrical sources), may need
permit to store large quantities, propane is heavier than air & can collect in low places (i.e.
basements, pits, floors) and can ignite/explode, steel propane cylinders are heavy, large cylinders are difficult to move. Need a large about for long term heating (1000lb + for a winter)
Butane
• Burn indoors or outdoors
• Use with small Heaters, Stoves and Lanterns
• Stoves: Porta-Chef stove about $10-20
• City restrictions storage to 100 gals total w/ other fuels, stored outside & away from home or garage.
• Pros: Can use indoors (emits CO and NO2) or out, convenient, clean burning, easy lighting, no pumping or priming, burns hot immediately, adjusts to simmer easily, easy refill – snap on new canister, works well at high altitudes, some stoves are very small and portable
• Cons: More expensive fuel, performance decreases in temps below 32° F, blended
butane/propane and isobutene fuels work better in cold temps. Emits NO2
White Gas
• Burn outdoors only
• Gas Grills and stoves
• Do not use in a tent. Carbon Monoxide is known as a “silent killer.” It is an invisible, odorless,
tasteless gas and is highly poisonous.
• Can heat bricks and rocks on the grill to take into the tent; wrap them up in a towel; they hold heat for some time.
• Use with Stoves and Lanterns
• Fuel: White gas is not gasoline or kerosene. White Gas - Coleman Fuel, Shellite, Mobilite, Pegasol, etc.
• When used with a Coleman stove, this is another excellent and convenient fuel for cooking. It is not as portable nor as lightweight as Sterno, but produces a much greater BTU value. Like Sterno, Coleman fuel has a tendency to evaporate even when the container is tightly sealed so it is not a good fuel for long-term storage. Unlike Sterno, however, it is highly volatile; it will explode under the right conditions and should therefore never be stored in the home or tent. Because of its highly flammable nature great care should always be exercised when lighting stoves and lanterns that use Coleman fuel. Many serious burns have been caused by carelessness with this product. Always store Coleman fuel in the garage or shed, out of doors.
• City restricts storage to 25 gals (in combination with gasoline, IE 25 total gals of white gas and
gasoline), stored outside & away from home or garage.
• Pros: Easy to find, clean burning, easy to light, spilled fuel evaporates quickly, produces a lot of heat.
• Cons: Expensive, volatile, spilled fuel can ignite quickly, priming required, produces carbon monoxide, store fuel outside, can evaporate like Sterno, highly flammable so use care
Diesel
• Burn outdoors only
• City restricts storage to 60 gals (in combination with Kerosene and oil lamp, 60 gals total), stored outside & away from home or garage.
• Pros: Easy to find, inexpensive, low volatility, burns well in some stoves, treated diesel can be
stored up to 10 years without degrading.
• Cons: Emits toxic fumes, clogs some stoves, gels in cold weather, protect from microbial growth
and water condensing in fuel.
Diethylene Glycol & Isoparaffin
• Can burn indoors and outdoors
• Fuel: Eco-Fuel, Heat it, Camp Heat, Dual Heat, Magic Heat
• Burn time: 8 hrs at 200° F, 4 hrs at 450° F
• Unlimited shelf life, never evaporates, even left open, non-flammable outside its container, no
toxic fumes, clear odorless liquid, even flame.
• City restricts storage to 55 gals total with other fuels, stored outside & away from home or garage.
• Pros: Works great for small cooking or heating needs. Safe, No flash backs when lighting, burns
constituent temperature, smokeless.
• Cons: 24 cans cost about $70, 24 cans = 192 hrs at moderate cooking temp or 96 hrs at high temp, harder to find.
Kerosene
• Burn outdoors or indoors with window opened
• Un-vented kerosene heaters, with attached fuel tanks, can be used for emergency or temporary heating. However, all the combustion products, including carbon monoxide and water, enter the living area. To be sure that these products do not raise pollution levels to unacceptable levels, use un-vented kerosene heaters only in well-ventilated rooms with a window cracked open.
• Also, all units must have a low-oxygen level shutoff. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
• The heater must be used with the proper fuel and should only be fueled outside after the heater has cooled.
• Stoves: Alpaca type kerosene cook stove – 8,500 BTUs, holds .9 gallons, lasts 16 hrs, abt $90,
replacement wicks abt $8. Kerosene cook stoves with 1, 2, & 3 burners, abt. $100
• Fuel brands: Liquid range oil, No. 1 Paraffin, Kero, Jet-A
• City restricts storage to 60 gals (in combination with diesel and oil lamp, 60 gals total), stored outside & away from home or garage.
• Pros: Kerosene fuel is one of the safest and most economical fuels. But use more because window has to be cracked open, stoves abt. $120, can cook on top of them, fuel easy to find worldwide, burns easily, high heat output, low volatility, can be used indoors,
• Cons: A vented heater is preferred and recommended, burns dirty, has order when igniting,
priming required, can gum up stove parts, uses oxygen in a room - crack a window
Manure
• Burn indoors or outdoors
• Cow or buffalo chips
• Pros: Inexpensive if you are on a farm, burns well
• Cons: Needs to dry before using, need large on-going quantity and easy to reach storage, possible unpleasant odor
Alternative Power Sources
Solar Power
Solar panels are becoming more cost effective every year and many States and Cities have rebates for solar system installations (along with a Federal Tax rebate). However, here in the northwest, even with these incentives the payback period is still many years out. Most solar systems are installed for the security and “peace of mind” for the contribution towards a greener planet than for the cost benefits. Solar power is generated in DC volts and must be “inverted” to AC voltage for household use. This is accomplished by an inverter. Backup batteries can be installed with a solar system for use after daylight hours. Solar installations require a building permit before construction.
• Pros: Good long-term choice, good in sunny locations, no odor, no mess, quiet, life span of 20 years.
• Cons: Very expensive to set up (abt $15,000+ per home), full power from the sun occurs only during a few hours in the day, batteries last only a few years, not suitable for apartments.
Wind Turbines
Wind turbines are also becoming more cost effective every year. However, there are fewer rebate options with small wind projects. Consult with your local City and State representatives for details. Wind turbines generate power in DC volts and must be “inverted” to AC voltage for household use. This is accomplished by an inverter. Wind turbine installations require a building permit before construction.
• Pros: Good long-term choice in windy locations, no odor, no mess, quiet
• Cons: Expensive to set up (abt $10K for a large unit, $3000 for a small unit), needs wind, requires way to store and convert power (IE battery backup system), not suitable in city or for apartments.
Power Inverters/Battery
• Inverter are devices that convert DC (IE think batteries) voltage to AC voltage for use on typical appliances. A power inverter can be a lifesaver if you need to heat up formula for your baby or power up an incubator for chicks, or just to have electricity during an electric outage. It enables you to use a common electrical device or appliance in your car or any place that has access to a 12 volt battery. Power inverters can be purchased in a computer store, camping/recreation vehicle stores, in marine supply stores, Walmart, Samsclub, Costco or online. They cost from $25, for a simple 100 watt unit, up to several hundred dollars for large units that will enable you to use electric appliances and provide power for up to 24 hours (depending on your battery size or if the car is running).
• The 100-watt unit allows you to heat several normal-sized heating pads. Average heating pads use 25 watts. Wrap these heating pads up in towels and place them in a bed, the bottom of a pet
carrier or incubator, etc.
• Accessories: To use this item in your home, you can buy an accessory for the power inverter - a detachable set of miniature jumper cables that cost about $5 to $10. This cable allows you to
bypass plugging the power inverter into your car's cigarette lighter and enables you to hook up
directly to any 12 volt battery. An extra, fully charged car battery is inexpensive and will work for 6 to 12 hours, depending on what you plug into the inverter and how much electricity that device uses. You can purchase small rechargeable electric batteries that will last for 6 hours each. They are compact, about one third the size of a car battery, and really add to the portability of your power inverter. They last for years and are well worth the extra cost. Expect to pay between $80 to $100 dollars for one of them.
• Multiple Batteries: If you anticipate lengthy outages, multiple batteries are recommended to
extend the length of time that you can provide power.
• Larger Units: If you have larger power requirements, a 400 watt power inverter would be
advisable. They cost hundreds of dollars less than a gasoline generator but handle the same
electrical capacity.
• Suggestions: Powerpack by Xantrex – 600 watt AC inverter (internal) surge/ 400 Watt sustained, with 28 amp/hr battery, 3 AC sockets 1 DC socket, recharged by AC or DC so can recharge from a solar panel, jumper cables, AM/FM clock radio, alarm clock, built-in light; MSRP $229, Amazon $140, use super saver shipping.
• Remember you get what you pay for, don’t buy a cheap one.
• Pros: Inexpensive backup power for the short term, varying sizes, low cost
• Cons: limited to your power source, stand alone battery will last a few hours depending on the use.
HEATING/COOKING – For Outside (some units can be used in a Tent)
Alcohol Stoves
• Burn indoors or out
• Suggested: Trangia based stoves (screw on cap allows you to save unburned fuel) - Clikstand, Westwind (cheaper)
• Fuel: Denatured alcohol – Methylated, Spirits, Metho, Ethynol, Alcohol Stove Fuel
• Pros: Can burn indoors or out; zero percent failure rate, low volatility, burns almost silently
• Cons: Open flame, cooking takes longer, requires more fuel, lower heat output
Trangia ClickStand Trangia Westwind Stove
Canned Heat (alcohol gel) Stoves
• Burn indoors or out
• Sterno Fuel, a jellied petroleum product, is an excellent source of fuel for inclusion in your back pack as part of your 72 hour kit. Sterno is very light weight and easily ignited with a match or a spark from flint and steel but is not explosive. It is also safe for use indoors.
• Pros: A Sterno Stove can be purchased at any sporting goods store and will retail between $3 and $8, depending upon the model you choose. They fold up into a very small, compact unit ideal for carrying in a pack. The fuel is readily available at all sporting goods stores and many drug stores. One can of Sterno fuel, about the diameter of a can of tuna fish and twice as
Diethylene Gycol Fueled Stove high, will allow you to cook six meals if used frugally. Chafing dishes and fondue pots can also be used with Sterno.
• Cons: Open flame. Sterno is not without some problems. It will evaporate very easily, even when the lid is securely fastened. If you use Sterno in your 72 hour kit, you should check it every six to eight months to insure that it has not evaporated beyond the point of usage. Because of this problem it is not a good fuel for long-term storage. It is a very expensive fuel to use compared to others fuel available, but is extremely convenient and portable.
Wood Tent Stoves, VENTED
• Burn indoors or outdoors
• Choose stove carefully, some are bad; consider the wood pellet-burning small stove that doesn’t require an electric auger, just throw several pellet bags into your truck and you don’t have to chop wood in cold weather or middle of the night
• Pros: Well designed stoves produce good heat, fuel is readily available in some areas, you can chop & haul your own, smells nice while burning, no toxic fumes, can be burned indoors and outdoors
• Cons: Stoves range from cheap to expensive, some stoves can be tricky to operate – practice
beforehand so you won’t burn your tent down, wood is scarce in some areas, wood burning in
non-EPA approved stoves is banned on “no burn days,” wood fuel requires ample storage space,
should be protected from moisture, requires a year’s seasoning before use, “Know Your Wood” or you will be stuck with poor burning species.
Wood Fires
• Burn outdoors
• Pros: Fuel is readily available in some areas, you can chop & haul your own, smells nice while
burning, no toxic fumes, can cook over open fire with proper equipment
• Cons: Open flame, some Teepees can use open fires, poor heat in cold weather, requires chopping and hauling, wood is scarce in some areas, wood fuel requires ample storage space, wood should be protected from moisture, requires a year’s seasoning before burns really well, “Know Your Wood” or you will be stuck with poor burning species, cannot burn open flames in dry/drought conditions, must be tended, have to wait for coals to cook
Appendix
Sources:
Dare to Prepare, Holly Drennan Deyo, 2nd Edition, Deyo Enterprises LLC, standeyo.com, pp. 284-289.
Disaster Recovery: Options for emergency home heating, Oct., 1993, University Extension, Iowa State University
Clikstand S-1, Art Simon, 2006 update, www.art.simon.tripod.com/Stoves/
What is carbon monoxide?
Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless and poisonous gas that can build up in your blood cells as you breathe. It may reach toxic levels in minutes or over several hours. Early symptoms of poisoning include dizziness, headache and/or nausea. People who are sleeping are likely to be more susceptible to carbon monoxide poisoning since they will not recognize the symptoms. Just getting out in the open air doesn’t eliminate carbon monoxide from your body. It takes 10 to 24 hours, so suffocation may even occur after you have left areas with high levels of carbon monoxide.
Solar Terms and Applications
Now to a few basic solar terms and application types...
Solar panels,as most know, are powered by the sun and the engine that drives them are silicon wafers specially coated and doped to create electricity via the photoelectric effect.There are of course other types of panels(most commonly called modules) and break down into three basic categories--->
1)Silicon based,as explained above(These are the most common panels that have what look like tiles on the front.Also there are two basic cell types:Mono and poly crystalline.They are made from the same material but are just cut from diffrent types of silicon ingots.Monocrystalline tend to be more effecient as the crystalline structure is unbroken and thus more expensive but both types are equally viable as cell types.
2)Thinfilm based-which is a combination of metals and plastic/silicon substrates but is basically the flexible panels you see here on Ebay and other places online.....
3)Solar concentrator cells- which are silicon based for the energy exchange but use reflectors to concentrate the light that hits the silicon wafer to increase efficiency.The idea behind these was to reduce the amount of silicon used per panel,cutting customer cost.Drawback is they are not the best to look ,thus bad to have on a roof that is street visible.These are the silver looking panels.
4)Amorphous Silicon which is basically silicon chips sprayed onto a glass substrate and are the uniform looking(one color/one piece) panels most famously protrayed as the harbor freight 3 panel kits available widely on Ebay.
Each has its own disadvantages and advantages over other types but the highest sunlight to electricity conversion rates are definitely with the thinfilms and most notably CIGS(copper-indium-gallium-selinide) cells.Without getting overly complicated there are other thinfilm cells such as GAS(Gallium Arsenide),multilayer cells and of course the new wunderkind nanosolar.
Spectrolabs,which has a lock on most of the space contracts(makes sense as they are a subsidiary of Boeing) makes the highest effeciency thinfilms and have a new triple layer TF technology that is 40% efficient.As space is more radiation deficient than earth due to particulate and diffusion ratios,the highest efficiency cells must be used in space and thus thinfilms.Mars Rovers?Those are Spectro labs panels made of CIGS thinfilms.
The problem with terrestrial TF's and the future of the product is that the metals used(gallium,germanium and Indium) are very limited.There is a set amount of MW(Megawatts) of capacity that can produced and then the supply of the metals will be exhausted at the present levels of mining supply.This is where silicon based solar panels shine above all of the rest as the base material(sand) is absolutely unlimited and the manufacturing processes are being refined on an almost daily basis through market competition to reduce costs(It will be established and low cost technology).No matter what is invented or comes along as the new top dog,silicon based solar cells will be the leading source of PV power for a very long time.Any new technology takes about 5 years to be on a manufacturing schedule due to the basic fact that whoever invents said technology must find money to build a turnkey plant.Nanosolar's(the company) panels are sold out for the next 5 years.That is rated at their production EXPANSION rate,not what they can produce today.That is the other advantage of traditional crystalline panels,there are alot of producers to bring alot of product to the general public.
The present bottleneck in silicon panel supply is the capacity to refine raw silicon into 99% pure(PV grade) silicon through silane gas reformation.This will ease in a few years however and the now sellers market will turn into a buyers fiesta when new silane plants come online and the supply crisis eases. So in the short run TF's are attractive but for the long haul crystalline based tech is where the safe money will be. Concentrator cells have their place but they are band aid cells to ease the current PV silicon shortage(they use 60% less silicon per producable Watt over regular cells).Amorphous cells are very low cost to produce and is their best point but they are very low efficiency and require much larger areas to produce the same power as other cells.Eventually amorphous silicon will cease to be used as smaller and smaller panels start producing more and more power.Silicon cells do have a theoretical 25% efficiency barrier and is a limiting factor as we have reached the limit right now(sunpower panels are 21-22% efficient) but who knows what the near future will bring......
Nanosolar is a newer tech that uses microscopic silicon chips and carbon nanotubules to blend sunlight to boost effeciency.It was also just discovered that if bent in the proper direction light diffusion and radiation increases dramatically producing vast amounts of power but those technologies are years away from production schedules. The tech we have right now can be refined to bring solar to under 2$ a watt and truly be the power that was promised via nuke power as being so abundant it is unmeterable.In the state of California,right now with incentives, is cheaper than grid power.We dont have to wait for the revolution,it is already here !
Hope that isnt more confusing than helpful but ill end with a truly simple outline of typical solar systems. There are again,3 main types:
1)Grid tied-This is where you have your modules tied into the electrical grid via a "net meter" and offset your power bill-"turning your meter backwards".This is more often a suburban solution.
2)Battery Based-This is modules connected to a battery bank to store the power produced by your panels and offers the best autonomy.Grid tied systems disconnect during a blackout and offer power only if batteries are also added to the system.For cabins and remote areas is where this system is used.
3)Standalone-This is just a PV panel directly powering a remote device such as telecom equipment or water pump where battery maintenance is impossible/impractical and cost prohibitive.
Solar panels,as most know, are powered by the sun and the engine that drives them are silicon wafers specially coated and doped to create electricity via the photoelectric effect.There are of course other types of panels(most commonly called modules) and break down into three basic categories--->
1)Silicon based,as explained above(These are the most common panels that have what look like tiles on the front.Also there are two basic cell types:Mono and poly crystalline.They are made from the same material but are just cut from diffrent types of silicon ingots.Monocrystalline tend to be more effecient as the crystalline structure is unbroken and thus more expensive but both types are equally viable as cell types.
2)Thinfilm based-which is a combination of metals and plastic/silicon substrates but is basically the flexible panels you see here on Ebay and other places online.....
3)Solar concentrator cells- which are silicon based for the energy exchange but use reflectors to concentrate the light that hits the silicon wafer to increase efficiency.The idea behind these was to reduce the amount of silicon used per panel,cutting customer cost.Drawback is they are not the best to look ,thus bad to have on a roof that is street visible.These are the silver looking panels.
4)Amorphous Silicon which is basically silicon chips sprayed onto a glass substrate and are the uniform looking(one color/one piece) panels most famously protrayed as the harbor freight 3 panel kits available widely on Ebay.
Each has its own disadvantages and advantages over other types but the highest sunlight to electricity conversion rates are definitely with the thinfilms and most notably CIGS(copper-indium-gallium-selinide) cells.Without getting overly complicated there are other thinfilm cells such as GAS(Gallium Arsenide),multilayer cells and of course the new wunderkind nanosolar.
Spectrolabs,which has a lock on most of the space contracts(makes sense as they are a subsidiary of Boeing) makes the highest effeciency thinfilms and have a new triple layer TF technology that is 40% efficient.As space is more radiation deficient than earth due to particulate and diffusion ratios,the highest efficiency cells must be used in space and thus thinfilms.Mars Rovers?Those are Spectro labs panels made of CIGS thinfilms.
The problem with terrestrial TF's and the future of the product is that the metals used(gallium,germanium and Indium) are very limited.There is a set amount of MW(Megawatts) of capacity that can produced and then the supply of the metals will be exhausted at the present levels of mining supply.This is where silicon based solar panels shine above all of the rest as the base material(sand) is absolutely unlimited and the manufacturing processes are being refined on an almost daily basis through market competition to reduce costs(It will be established and low cost technology).No matter what is invented or comes along as the new top dog,silicon based solar cells will be the leading source of PV power for a very long time.Any new technology takes about 5 years to be on a manufacturing schedule due to the basic fact that whoever invents said technology must find money to build a turnkey plant.Nanosolar's(the company) panels are sold out for the next 5 years.That is rated at their production EXPANSION rate,not what they can produce today.That is the other advantage of traditional crystalline panels,there are alot of producers to bring alot of product to the general public.
The present bottleneck in silicon panel supply is the capacity to refine raw silicon into 99% pure(PV grade) silicon through silane gas reformation.This will ease in a few years however and the now sellers market will turn into a buyers fiesta when new silane plants come online and the supply crisis eases. So in the short run TF's are attractive but for the long haul crystalline based tech is where the safe money will be. Concentrator cells have their place but they are band aid cells to ease the current PV silicon shortage(they use 60% less silicon per producable Watt over regular cells).Amorphous cells are very low cost to produce and is their best point but they are very low efficiency and require much larger areas to produce the same power as other cells.Eventually amorphous silicon will cease to be used as smaller and smaller panels start producing more and more power.Silicon cells do have a theoretical 25% efficiency barrier and is a limiting factor as we have reached the limit right now(sunpower panels are 21-22% efficient) but who knows what the near future will bring......
Nanosolar is a newer tech that uses microscopic silicon chips and carbon nanotubules to blend sunlight to boost effeciency.It was also just discovered that if bent in the proper direction light diffusion and radiation increases dramatically producing vast amounts of power but those technologies are years away from production schedules. The tech we have right now can be refined to bring solar to under 2$ a watt and truly be the power that was promised via nuke power as being so abundant it is unmeterable.In the state of California,right now with incentives, is cheaper than grid power.We dont have to wait for the revolution,it is already here !
Hope that isnt more confusing than helpful but ill end with a truly simple outline of typical solar systems. There are again,3 main types:
1)Grid tied-This is where you have your modules tied into the electrical grid via a "net meter" and offset your power bill-"turning your meter backwards".This is more often a suburban solution.
2)Battery Based-This is modules connected to a battery bank to store the power produced by your panels and offers the best autonomy.Grid tied systems disconnect during a blackout and offer power only if batteries are also added to the system.For cabins and remote areas is where this system is used.
3)Standalone-This is just a PV panel directly powering a remote device such as telecom equipment or water pump where battery maintenance is impossible/impractical and cost prohibitive.
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